Kununurra to Port Vincent (SA)

Hi all, I'm sitting in my nice, warm caravan beside an ocean with white caps on it. Yes, we have made Port Vincent in SA to try for some squid fishing. Cold and blustery is the day, but the intrepid sailors we have, ventured into the big blue water to try their hand. Crazy - yes, I think it might help.

As I say we have made SA but traveled some amazing country in between to get here. 

Leaving Kununurra we headed east, turning off for a short stop at Lake Argyle and the Durrak Homestead. This lake is amazing with its capacity to water the whole of Kununurra in crops and power, without making a dent in the water level. The caravan park here used to be a basic park (20 plus years ago) but has now turned into a 'resort' with prices to match. $90 per site in the caravan park - we didn't stay. The old pub is now very chic, with outside dining and bar. 

Everything has money attached these days, including the Old Durrak Homestead.

You have to pay to go in and have the tour, where once it was free. Times are a changing and not necessarily for the best. After taking our pictures from the outside of the fence we headed back to the main road leading out of WA and into the NT. In fact we blinked and found us on there other side of the border without even knowing about it. Except, that is for the deterioration in the roads. We now remember what our own state is like and this is to the same standard. 

Travelling down the road we follow the Gregory Ranges, a majestic scene when we come across the Victoria River at Timber Creek. Well actually it was the Gregory Tree where Mr Gregory (explorer) set up camp, engraving his date in the old Boab tree, signifying he was here, where we found the Victoria River. After the Victoria River roadhouse no more boabs to be seen. 

A camp on the side of the road in a gravel pit and the following day we were onto Katherine for fuel and a quick look at the Gorge.

Katherine Gorge another disappointment. Can't see the river for trees and the only way you get to see the gorge is take a boat ride. Yep, more money! At least all the flyings foxes a.k.a bats have been relocated from the area making the cafe and surrounds quite pleasant.

Next stop Mataranka and Bitter Springs. Neither of them disappointed us and both were free to enter. Hallelujah! We donned the swimming attire and took the plunge. Some more so than others. In fact one member didn't actually get wet, but did provide assistance as the towel boy. 

Change of clothes, quick coffee and off down the Stuart Highway. Nights were becoming cooler, so the good old doona was hauled out of the cupboard. Days were still sunshine and light wind.

All of the roadhouses were patronised with either fuel, supplies or coffee or a combination of the same. We had to make the obligatory stop at Daly Waters and Devils Marbles as this was the first time the other couple had been down this road from Katherine. Daly Waters was just as chaotic as I remember, and Devils Marble still spectacular but certain places off limits. (Aboriginal Cultural reasons).

Aileron Roadhouse

Larrimah Museum

Larrimah Hotel

One of the nicest roadhouses with a quiet demeanour and fascinating history of WW11 was Larrimah. Still the classic Aussie Pub, but they are doing the Museum up and the signage around the place is a fascinating insight of Australia's top end relevance in the war. 

Travelling further down we reach Alice Springs again. Only a fuel stop this time with the history over the past few days less that flattering. (More fights and disruption). 

More travelling continued down the highway with little to write about except the kms each and every day.  

Finally we have landed in SA and made our way down the Yorke Peninsula to Port Vincent, where it is cold and blustery. Port Vincent is quiet, with many shops closed for the winter or all together. The boys are trying their hand at squid fishing, although if their morning episode was any indication we will be heading east again very shortly and to home. 

Tropic Of Capricorn

I'm not sure if there will be another Blog, as I believe from here we go straight home. We will have to wait and see. Thanks for travelling with us all the same. For now see ya later. 

Finke River camp

Coober Pedy

Moonta - Best Crornish pasties 

Derby to Kununurra

Well we have seen some sights on our trip, as we continue in the west for a little bit longer, but one of the biggest disappointments would have to be Derby. 

Once again a sad, despondent town with little industry going for it, since the wharf closed down. No more exporting anything from Derby it seems, even though there was a prospect of a coal mine opening up, but that has been stopped as well. No wharf means, no great fish and chips at the end of the wharf either. Many shops not open and the caravan park we went into said, 'pick a site, any site you want'. No need to book up here as not many people making the effort anymore.

The positive we did see was the wonderful sculptures around the mud flats. Very artistic and adds a nice touch to some terrible ground. Each tells a story of the area.After  left Derby we headed out the Gibb River Road for the turnoff to Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek. The initial bitumen road lulled us into a nice sense of security before turning the corner onto the Windjana road. Here we go again, with corrugations and dust! Tires down in pressure before we continued much further. The red dirt the worst for corrugations. The mud flats lovely, as hard packed and as speedy as we could get.

After some issues filling in the camping details for Windjana (actually it was their cash component that was the problem, with Sandra raiding her washing coins to help with finding the right amount). They have a machine for credit card use - but that's only for day use, not camping. 

We find our camp under some nice trees as the weather is still hot (sorry home people), in the generator section, just in case we needed Air Con. (which we did). 

Paul took the other two people for a walk into Windjana (such nice people - instead of saying no we will wait for the cooler part of tomorrow, go with him). I stayed back at camp and about 1/2 hour later in walk a couple of slightly hot, red-faced, exhausted people. Maybe they need to say no thanks next time hubby suggests walking in the middle of the day. I did my walk next morning when it was cooler, but still managed a nice red face by the time I got back. Winjana certainly has changed since the last time we where here. Apparently, the big wet this year saw water at least a metre over the camp site and taking down a lot of big trees, creating an extra 200mt mouth to the river. Many small saplings are starting to grow on the bak, making photographing quite difficult.

 After our walk, I too was exhausted, so when we went into Tunnel Creek, I'd already made my decision to not go in. Once again the water has made an impact here as you now have to swim, in the dark, for at least 10 Mts, let alone the steps into the tunnel were as slippery as glass. No-one braved it too far and returned happy not to have any broken legs.Our journey continued down towards Fitzroy Crossing with the Devonian range keeping us company most of the way, with boabs everywhere, including growing out of the rocks.

We finally found the highway, some lunch, pump tires up and away we go into Fitzroy Crossing. Buy some feul and head across one of the new bridges they have put in, due to the other one washing away about 2 years ago in the big floods they had up here. More construction work is continuing for another bridge, but hopefully it will be completed before the 'wet' next year. Next on the map was to be Halls Creek, but before we could get there we were stuck on the side of the road due to a fatal accident closing the highway for over 6 hours. Stories abounded about what had happened to the unfortunate person. The real story, according to the news, was a person hit a cow - both killed. 

We did meet some nice people in our side parking bay, but really it was all a bit boring. We thought when the traffic was allowed to come thorough we would sit and watch a passing parade. After about 12 vehicles came past, it stopped, pretty much anyway. Most of the vans must have turned around and returned to Mary Pools camp site or others. 

On the road next morning and we rocked into Halls Creek for fuel and some sustenance. What a nice surprise since last time we were here. Most of the rubbish was in the bins, no people sitting (too much) on the ground. Very busy servo actually and well stocked. 

After a night on the road again (in a proper free camp), we found ourselves in Kununurra. Once again one of my favourite places, but once again things change. No Sandalwood Factory! Yes we did find the Hoochery and I must admit the coffee and G&T cake were delicious.

 And the other party did the early morning flight over the Bungle Bungles, Lake Argyle and Argyle Diamond mine (not functioning) before returning safely to the ground.The Zebra Rock factory was fascinating and I just had to spend a small amount in their shop.

Today we went to Wyndham and we were worried it might too be like Derby, a dying town, but to our surprise the new village of Wyndham (port has closed and nearly all the buildings there are disused), it quite pleasing.  The Croc Bakery certainly made a hit with everyone. 

Then it was up to the 5 Rivers Lookout, which didn't disappoint. No more cattle yards, no more croc farm but the view is still spectacular. 

Onto Parry's Lagoon via the Old Telegraph Station, were we spotted a saltwater croc minding his own business on the other side of the lagoon. Many birds of differing variety, all happy with us around them. 

Well we have done our bit here and tomorrow takes us down the black stuff towards NT.  See you later.

Cape Kerauden to Derby

Hot, hot and hot is all I can say about the weather up here at the moment. We have even resorted to air conditioning in a caravan park. Usually we like the unpowered sites but we relented at 31.5C feels like 32.7c. Van was 36C when we opened it up. Yes, we are in Derby for the next two days. 

We stayed at Cape Kerauden to see the Staircase to the Moon, which we waited (it seemed like hours on a rocky outcrop ) to photograph this full moon phenomenon. As the full moon rises across the mud flats it creates a light effect similar to a staircase.  Was it worth it? I'd say the hype was better than the actual event. 

After leaving the big flat area of Cape Kerauden we then headed to Barn Hill Station. This has always been a favourite of mine from the last time around and only hoped the other party liked it as much as I did. And it didn't disappoint! In fact it was been enhanced with a lovely coffee shop with cakes and daily fresh bread. A bowling green completes the area here before finding a great spot, just off the cliff, but a view with the aquamarine ocean in our sights. 

The rock formation around the beach area is spectacular, add to that the white sand and the scene is one of the best you will find for pure relaxation. So much so, we stayed an extra night. No fish were caught but the boys tried very hard. They didn't launch the boat as saw too many others being bogged, calling for assistance to extricate them from the sand. With much reluctance and after a coffee we headed out towards Broome. 

The Broome Gateway Caravan Park became our home for the next 2 days. 23 kms out from Broome and a lovely relaxed, spacious park was found here. Highly recommend it if you want to get out of the rat-race in Broome where you are squashed in like sardines and twice the price. Only disadvantage (if you consider it) you have to go unpowered. No powered sites.

Well we went into Broome and yes, it was busy. Oh how I hate busy! People everywhere, cars everywhere and over expensive pearl, diamond and clothing shops. If you wanted a manicure or pedicure or massage or laser treatment then Broome is your place. Thank goodness they still had a good pie shop, even if it did take a bit to find it. In fact walking down the Main Street in Chinatown, an elderly woman says to her partner "I just want a normal pie!" the boutique eating places didn't cut it for her.

Grocery shopping was the main event for us this first day with the second day set for Cable Beach, camels and whatever other sights we could do.

After a very casual morning at our park, we started into Broome for the second time. This time we looked at the Port of Broome with trucks running up and down the bridge carrying some type of mineral for export on a large boat. They were loaded in containers with a huge crane at the boat end taking containers off replacing them with empty ones. 

On the way back into town we stopped off at the Cemetery to check out the wonderful Japanese section as a tribute to the Japanese pearl divers who were so prevalent in the Broome history of pearling. The entire cemetery has a very interesting arrangement of Indigenous, Chinese and European representation. 

Then back into town for a bit more shopping (I've lost a pair of 3/4 pants along the way and wanted to replace them). Alas all the shops had winter stock in and nothing of my requirements, even the Op Shop.

Back on the road and out to Gantheaume Point where the lighthouse reigns supreme. The lighthouse keeper house would have a lovely view over the bay of Cable beach and Indian Ocean. Not sure I'd want to be out there in a cyclone. There are supposed to be dinosaur prints in the rocks out here too, but we only found the make believe ones. Still, the rock formations were terrific. 

Finally after discovering all the locals like to hang out on the beach at Gantheaume beach, we made our way over to the infamous Cable Beach. People, people everywhere. 4X4 all over the beach lined up for the sunset and camels. The problem we found was the camels were going away from us when we arrived. We would have to wait at least another 1/2 hour before their return. 

And return they did, with everyone jockeying for position for the best photo. 

As the sun set for one more day we left the good looking people to the remainder of Cable Beach and Broome. I've been here twice and don't need to go back. Byron Bay, Airly Beach, Port Douglas and Broome all have the same vibe to me. Money, money, money.

Late back at camp and quite exhausted, a nice corn-beef sandwich (thanks Sandra for cooking it) was enjoyed with my red wine under the starry milky-way. A big day and with Broome in our rear view mirror it was time to move to Derby. 

A quick look at the old Boab Prison Tree and in to find a park. A bit of washing and update of the blog, we will wait for the sun to lose some of its kick before venturing too far today. 

Derby is more my style of place with the less hectic pace being left behind. Let's see what we can find tomorrow. 

Barn Hill Station

Last coffee at Barn Hill

Downtown Chinatown - Broome

Japanese Cemetery section 

Look closely and see the plane coming into Broome

Gantheaume Point beach

Cable Beach - pre sunset

Willare Roadhouse

Prison Boab tree - Derby