Part 4

The Eagle Has Landed

The clouds gathered and the rain fell. At least last night it did, putting our plans for the day on hold. Here we sit at Gregory Downs, a small settlement in the Gulf Country of Queensland. 

I chose the above title for two reasons:

Boodjmulla NP (Lawn Hill) has been on my bucket list for many years after watching a documentary on the natural wonders of the area. The last time I traversed this area was two years ago when travelling to Cape York.

At the time my health was dealing me a nasty hand. Between blood tests at Mt Isa and doctors calling me from Bairnsdale, I was thwarted in going to this remote slice of Australia. 

Well, I still have the health issues, but they appear under control for now. Plus, I have the blessing from my doctor to ‘go and enjoy myself while I can’.

So, the eagle (being us) has landed in this area, ready to tick off another of my list. The rain last night dampened more than our enthusiasm; also, the track. Watching the campers and cars come into the park this morning, things look exceedingly dirty. We’re not in a hurry and it gives us a chance to catch up on this blog, along with allowing the gravel roads to dry up. 

On the road to Gregory Down

The second reason: the amount of dead Wedge-Tailed Eagles lying beside the road between Winton and Mt Isa is one of regret. Twenty eagles we observed, deceased beside the roadside. This is a stretch of road of only six hundred kilometres. Such a tragedy these resplendent birds of prey, become prey themselves to us! Trucks, cars and other vehicular devices.

Being my favourite bird of any species (although I do have a special place for my Willy Wagtail), I was shocked and disgusted in the way these birds lay lifeless on the roads. 

Yes, we have seen a few live birds, and we do slow down to accommodate their slow take-off. I just wish a few others did the same. 

Okay, enough of my lecture, on with our story…

Leaving Winton, we had one more stop in the hunt for dinosaurs. The Age of Dinosaurs was to complete the three big attractions for these prehistoric monsters. 

Again, the site which was chosen for this display was spectacular. Set on top of a mesa (or jump up), the road wound its way around the mountain side with scenic views taking advantage of every corner. On top, the panorama one-hundred and eighty degree of the surrounding Winton area. 

I had tried to book online for this tour and although I had paid my money, the wrong date was locked in. Me or technology – whose to say? 

Anyway, we pleaded our case to the wonderful attendants at reception and were able to tag-a-long with the group at 12:45pm. The only issue was, we had to take our own vehicle down to the pavilion and park in the centre of the turnaround for the shuttle bus. From there we were to show the bus driver our tickets and follow the group.

Age of Dinosaurs - Winton

Well, we made our way down the road with about five minutes before time. Wandering our way, we passed a shuttle bus returning. Thinking nothing of this we continued on our way, until a very officious park attendant strode out to us. “What are you doing here? I had a phone call from the bus, saying someone was coming down the road. No-one is supposed to come down here”.

After explaining we had tickets and were told to be here at 12:45pm by the lady at reception, he settled down and told us to park where we were. It seems, we were supposed to meet the shuttle at 12:45pm and follow them down. Communication – got to love it!

This section of the park was recently opened and houses more dinosaur prints. The story of how they came to be here was exceptional. Three volunteer ladies transported them from the original site at Snake Creek. With strategic placing of the individual clay-based prints it all came together. 

These prints were of larger dinosaurs and were of a casual nature, unlike the ones of the stampede. In this section were also crocodile prints and lung-fish. All housed for prosperity under the roof of an airconditioned building for generations to ogle over. Just like us!

Outside the building there is a new dark observatory being built, opening in September this year they hope. This will also have a telescope and is world renowned as a ‘dark area’ (meaning: no artificial light affecting the night sky). 

The Canyon was next, with the displays attached to the boulders and rocks in various shapes and forms. Making the best of the environment, each one had a stencil to trace and an explanation of each prehistoric creature.

Displays in the canyon

After the obligatory photos and reading about each display it was back to the car and continue our journey. 

Coming back through Winton (it was now 2:30pm) hubby thought he could ‘handle’ a pie. Alas, nothing and I mean nothing in Winton was open, beside the pub, whose meals were off until tea time. Oh well, onwards to toward Boulia. Pies will have to wait another day. (He is still waiting!)

The Kennedy Development road would have to be one of the most picturesque roads in this country. Striking mesas rise from the red dirt. The colours of these mountains outstanding. All the colours of ochre; orange, red, grey, cream, black. You could say the ‘rainbow serpent’ painted this land in magical times. 

After you drive through these mesas, the country becomes flat and contrasting landscape to where we came. Then another set of mesas, then flat channel country all the way into Boulia. 

Kennedy Development Road - Mesas

But before Boulia, I was on another mission. A mission to find ‘moon rocks’! 

I first saw these at the museum in Boulia two years ago. The lady at the museum said I either pay ten dollars for one, or seek my one on the K.D.R. as they were constructing a road and many were being upturned in the excavations. 

I didn’t pay the ten dollars, but vowed to come back one day and look for these fascinating sedimentary rocks. Besides the shape of the rock, when opened there is a fossil of various types: wood, shell, animal in the middle.

About seventy kilometres from Boulia, I asked Paul to stop the car as I thought I recognised the shape of the rock. Once again, the fossicking skills came into play and yes, we found moon rocks. Big ones, small ones and ones that were just right! Three intact (mostly) rocks are being transported in the back of the car to Cairns, where we endeavour to open them and see what treasure is inside. Other than these I took some photos of the more interesting ones. (They were also too big).  

Half a Moon rock. Spot the fossils.

Now another prize found, it was onto Mt Isa for the last-minute supplies before heading north. 

Boodjamulla tomorrow, even though it is quite cool here today and the sky overcast.

Last thing to record: we went to the hotel last night for a few light refreshments. And looking at the table across from us, spot two friends from Inverloch who made the bike trip across Australia five years ago with us. It really is a small world.                     

     

   

Camping and Sunset on the road to Mt Isa

 

Part 3

All that glitters is not gold!

It’s official! We are now certified fossickers. Having a fossicker’s licence for the next month allows us the pickings of any sites within Queensland.

And we haven’t been tardy in finding our first ‘colour’. But I’ll get to that later. 

I need to update you on the find I had back before Eromanga. Remember I emailed the Natural History Museum with some photos? Well, a return email informed me, I didn’t find a ‘portal’ or a ‘dragon’s backbone’ but a very interesting weathering effect on ironstone. I like the dragon backbone theory better, but will accept they know a little more than I do. Oh well, maybe next time. 

The email I received re the photos

Meanwhile up the track, and I do mean track, we took the road less travelled between Jundah and Winton. This track lead us through some great Mulga country, with a magnificent mountain range to the west of us. The colours of the outback never cease to amaze and inspire me. From deep red of the land, to the grey-green of the spinifex; the land forever changes depending on the light of the day. The road was quiet, with only three other vehicles passing us the entire two hundred and fifty kms. 

We stopped on the banks of the glorious Mayne River. We were by ourselves in this camp and even though it was remote, felt at complete peace with nature. 

The bird life was outstanding with Great Herons, Egrets, Pigeons. Even my Willy Wagtail made another appearance. Right on dusk, a raucous sounding from the trees echoed across the campsite. Red-tailed Black Cockatoos. Not enough light for photographs, but striking to behold. You can breathe deeply out here and feel the ‘serenity’.

Mayne River camp

Onwards next day and we pass the turn off to Opalton. We pass the sign vowing to return. Our mission today is to see the Dinosaur Stampede exhibition twenty kilometres further toward Winton.

Once again, no disappointment in this complex. Money doesn’t seem to be an issue where dinosaurs once ruled. Coming into the complex was stunning. From the flat dry country, we entered hills of red rocks, spinifex and gum trees. The undulating nature led us to the dinosaur centre. A large stainless steel covered building, set in amongst the mountain range.

As Molly Meldrum said “do yourself a favour” and check out this place. 

To find this place initially and then to dedicate the hours is amazing. The tedious work, patience, and dedication the initial palaeontologist’s and volunteers completed is outstanding. 

Following our tour, we then headed back the kilometres to the Opalton turnoff. 

Turning, the dirt road we now encountered was no worse than travelled previously; until the corner heading north!  Then it was down to twenty kilometres per hour as corrugations became the constant. 

A road less travelled - Jundah to Winton

It was now becoming late in the day and we would normally have found a camp for the night, but the small mullock heaps which now dotted our horizon kept our mind seeking Oplaton. I didn’t think miners (of any sort) would appreciate us pulling up camp near one of their sites. (I’ve also watched too many movies about desperados).

Now passing a sign indicating ‘Fossicking Allowed Here’ gave us hope that our camp was only a short run from here. Opalton finally came into sight with a rustic ‘bush camping’ sign pointing to the left.

Dinosaur footprints

Heading the car into the camp we were greeted with ‘happy hour’ at the community information area. A donation of $2.50 per person, per night and a ‘pull over anywhere’ the recommendation, we were set up for the next couple of days. 

Allan was the gentleman who issued our licences. A short explanation, from one of the semi-permanent ladies, about what opal looks like and where to go, and we were on our fossicking way.

Up early, unhook van and out to seek our fortune. The first twenty minutes proved our best haul of opal. Glinting in the sunlight, I picked-up a piece just near the front tyre - a small piece and a purple colour. A few other pieces later and much more time, we moved on. 

As I said in a previous post, I love rocks. And this place didn’t disappoint. In fact, there were so many ‘nice’ rocks, I had to ban both of us from pulling any more back to the van. At one stage I had a pocket for rocks (general) and a pocket for opal. The pocket of rocks – full. Opals – nah, just a few bits. But at least I did find ‘colour’ which was my real motivation.

Opalton was a b onus on our trip, as I didn’t have any notion about its existence. Once a bustling town of over six-hundred people, all seeking their fortune one way or another, now no permanent resident. It was a positive experience in every way.

The people were helpful and friendly; the camp ample including campfire. Shower and flush toilet a bonus. The community centre a hub of activity each day at 4:00pm for debriefing, bragging about the days finds or general conversation with other like-minded people travelling the outback. 

My Opal find

Leaving Opalton, we were feeling a tinge of sadness. But we needed to head to civilisation after eating the contents of the last tin of baked beans the previous night. Other supplies were also severely diminished. Especially for hubby – no grog! 

We now sit at Winton; washing done, shopping complete and alcohol purchased. The Dinosaur Canyon our quest tomorrow before heading to Boulia to find Moon rocks!

Winton itself is a fascinating town. Very famous for the Banjo Patterson poet and Waltzing Matilda fame. Other eccentric attractions include Arno’s Wall and Musical Fence. Hubby found the Truck Museum stimulating as he reminisced over all the old engines, he plied his trade on eons ago. 

Arno's Wall - Winton

I wonder where the next track will lead? Don’t be surprised if we take another track less travelled. 

 

       

    

 

     

   

 

Eulo to Windorah 

Sitting on top of the world at Stonehenge. Yes, Australia does have a Stonehenge, albeit with no giant stones, but lots of smaller stones including the never-ending gibber.  

We crossed the Cooper Creek near Windorah this morning after staying on its banks about ten kilometres out of town. They don’t call this flat, plain, channel country for nothing. Travelling over numerous flood plains with some water in quite a few of the channels we have landed here on what is classified as a Jump-Up. 

Sturt was the first explorer to name the Cooper Creek and decided because it had no flow to it, a creek it had to be and not a river. Much of the Cooper is a series of billabongs which flow only after good rainfall. Eventually making its way down through Innamincka and onto Lake Eyre.  

Before continuing on our journey, let me take you back to where the last Blog post left off. On the hunt for dinosaurs and opals. 

Eulo, our first stop. An interesting man at the Opal shop gave us all the low-down on some fascinating conspiracies of today’s world. A smoker, with only one leg and an old opal miner from way back. I’m sure you have the picture. Beside his conspiracies he was a very helpful bloke on opals, and rocks within his store. The store, quite old, but kept in good condition for an old place. Hubby saw an old double-decker bus in the backyard and asked “does it still work”? 

Boulder Opal

“Yep” came the reply without hesitation, “she keeps the north-westerly wind from hittin’ the house”. Typical outback response. Priceless! Well, he was so nice I had to buy some opal (as I’m afraid that might be the closest, I get to the real thing). Plus, some attractive cut rocks, not exactly opals but appealing all the same. Oh, and a necklace: stone with small purple opal, hung by barb-wire! 

After this short stop it was onto Thargomindah. A quaint town on the banks of the Bulloo River.

I love the outback names; how they roll off the tongue. Here we stayed in our first van park for the couple of weeks away, so far. Washing and general clean up, the aim of the stay. The bird life was amazing, as being so close to the river we had Fairy-Martens darting and diving outside out windows most of the day. Colourful parrots, galahs, corellas, and of course the cheeky Willy-Wagtail. (More about him later). Thargomindah is not a large town but had a good size supermarket. Prices were expensive, but in the out-back you need to allow for this and not complain. If this town is not here, where do you get your supplies? Onto the Info Centre where we met up with another couple previously at the Biddegolly NP. (A large natural inland lake system, where we’d stopped for lunch). After talking with a lovely young lady about what to do in the town. She suggested a tour of the Old Power Station (first electric lights in town outside London and Paris); followed by the Old Hospital (with resident ghost) and ending with the Old Police Station. 

The power station and hospital were brilliant. Videos and holograms explaining how and what and where and when. You entered with a swipe key and waited (patiently) for the blinds to be drawn and the drama to commence. Alas, the police station was too much to take as nothing worked in here. The girl at the info centre did comment that people didn’t like getting locked in the cell. I wonder why? 

Pelican Point is a point of interest and is one of the locals favourite watering holes. Situated on the Bulloo River a natural weir provides a catchment for a swimming pool. BBQs, picnic tables and chairs are well situated below some magnificent Red Gum trees. 

Hubby even rescued a Yabby net from under a rock, someone had left. With some ingenuity and a tent peg, he had it sitting on the bank ready for the owner to collect. 

Leaving Thargomindah, the next morning we headed west before taking a northly diversion. We were still yet to find dinosaurs and reading the local tourist magazine, I’d picked up in the info centre, thought Eromanga might be a remarkable place. I was right! 

But let me take a moment to indulge in a fantasy of mine while walking around a camp site about seventy kilometres from Eromanga. To make it even more thought-provoking, we were the only ones there. 

I love rocks! Colours, texture, shapes, sizes. All intrigue me. Where did they come from? What are they made of? Every place I stop at (camp wise), I have my head to the ground and wander, in search of … anything that takes my fancy. On wandering this particular camp-site a small willy-wagtail followed me. Everywhere I went here he is dancing and twittering in front of me. While there was shrub protection he was fluttering up and down in front, to my side, back to the front, around the back.

WWT in flight. look closely!

 

As much as I was paying attention to him, I stumbled onto a strange shaped black piece of stone?, in the middle of a sandy coloured floor. I took a picture and wandered back to camp, excited to show hubby. He looked at it and said “there is another weird structure over there you need to look at. It’s just under the tree and is round.” Meanwhile the WWT is doing his calling and bantering in this particular tree Hubby pointed out. I walked over and found the very distinctive rock???, in the ground as described. I just finished a book from Nora Roberts called ‘The Awakening’ and I swear this black rock formation looked like a portal to another world, if ever I saw it! (or the backbone of a dragon)! WWT thought so too as he flew off and we didn’t see him again that day. 

Wierd black 'portal' with dragon backbone

Now enough with the imagination, onwards with the real story. 

Maybe petrified wood

Corey doing somme scraping.

 

Eromanga didn’t disappoint. In fact, I didn’t really know what to expect when we drove up to a magnificent building that could have passed for five-star accommodation. The Eromanga Natural History Museum is something to behold. A multimillion-dollar complex with theatrette, coffee shop, souvenirs and so forth, which has only been open for nine weeks. Didn’t we feel special! And a great big bone in the middle! A mind-blowing tour of the factory with all the dinosaur bones, casts, machinery for cleaning bones and a lecture of how the discoveries are made, had us both enthralled and overwhelmed. So much information, so many questions to ask. Corey, our guide, rattled off the names of prehistoric monsters as if it was his mother’s name. 

An hour and a half past before we traced our steps back to the administration building with our minds racing and a new appreciation of our earth’s ancestry. Oh, and I did show Corey my pictures of the weird stuff back at our camp. He was extremely interested and suggested my first picture might be petrified wood. He had no explanation for the ‘dragons back’, but liked the name! He asked me to email the pictures to the Centre, where a more experienced person will take a look. I have done this and await with some anticipation of my (our – hubby and my) find. 

Dinosaur leg bone (cast on outside. Brown bit bone)

In the meantime, heading out of Eromanga we headed to Quilpie. Another of those remote outback towns that have always captivated me. The only other time I was on Quilpie’s soil was back several years ago (7) as I touched down in an aeroplane on my way home from Birdsville. 

Being told to “get out of the outback, it’s too remote for you” (as I did have a medical issue), hubby and I had to leave our vehicle in Birdsville and fly, bus and train it back to East Gippsland. Well, I’m giving the outback another shot and hopefully this time, I can behave myself. And as for Quilpie, I didn’t find that much to do there, so moved on. 

Windorah was next on our list as another town I touched down in seven years back. Another disappointment! Not much here to attract the visitor beside the Cooper Creek a few kilometres down the track. Milk in the service station - out of date. Very little on the shelves and few people in the township. I’m not sure how these little places survive, or why? 

Jundah was the best little place we found in the Barcoo Shire. A near new service station provided much needed sustenance before heading out towards Longreach. 

View from our camp site at Stonehenge

I’m not sure which road we will take from here. Winton or Longreach is on the cards. I can see more dinosaurs are in sight and perhaps the odd opal as well. Oh, my goodness there’s the WWT again. I wonder where he will lead me this time; as I can see rocks too!

2021 Trip

The Great Escape.

Someone once said to me “you can plan all you want, but God will decide.”

Well, it appears God did decide! Or at least Covid -19 and the politicians decided. 

Due to leave on June 1^st, the Victorian government called a snap lockdown for ALL Victoria. It was now the 27^th of May. Following this information, I stamped my feet, swore a lot and made the instant decision to throw (literally) clothing and food into the, already prepared van, and head across the state border before being locked in. I wasn’t prepared to waste another week of my life in a lockdown, which didn’t even affect our region of Victoria.

The closest state border for us was 3 hours away, so we needed to go and go fast. We tried to rally the other parties who were coming with us to do the same, but for various reasons we were the only ones to make it out in time. (They sit at the border as I write, waiting for restrictions to ease and maybe, make the journey across. We are now in Queensland!). 

Our trip was not originally in the direction of Queensland. We were to follow my Mother’s journal. My father, mother and a couple of others made the trek across the Central Desert Road into Western Australia in 1992. 

We were to follow their travels, trekking up the Oodnadatta Track, into Alice Springs, onto Uluru before heading west into true desert country. 

I found my Mum’s journal before she passed away some 4 years ago and after reading bits and pieces remarked on how intrepid they were almost 30 years back. Yes, they had four-wheel-drives back then, but few other conveniences. We now have our off-road vans, with toilet, shower, washing machine and microwave! I wonder what Mum would think of all this?

Warri Camp NSW

As I said, we high-tailed it out of Victoria and spent the first night on the road being buffered by high winds and cold weather. Sleet greeted us the next morning. One other couple came with us in a last-minute rush. Not in the original party, but friends nevertheless. 

We travelled up the Monaro Highway, with sleet and small patches of snow finding its way to the ground. The heater in the car on full tilt! We wanted to avoid all major towns and instead of trying to go through Canberra, circumnavigated the entire state via some outback roads and some wonderful scenery. Snow had stopped by now and the vistas from the top-of the-world were spectacular.

Our next camp was by a river with large River Red Gums for company, along with some others panning for gold. The company was good, the fire burned brightly and all was good with our life. The only issue I had, because the other parties hadn’t made it out, was guilt! 

One of the gang initially coming, asked if we were stopping at Cann River on our way out? My response was “NO! Just get across the border ASAP!” They didn’t make it!

Ponto Falls Camp NSW

This feeling of guilt haunted me for quite a time, before I came to realize, we have choices in our life. Some choices are hard to make, especially when it involves others; some are easier, usually as an individual. Some choices are made for you and you need to adjust. Such as the choice not to go to Western Australia as originally planned. 

With state borders closed and permits required everywhere you go, outback roads impassable due to rain in the regions, we felt our choice to go to Queensland was the best option for us. 

Yes, we did some mice at Ponto Falls. Check the top of the tyre.

I now sit in sunny Queensland with the birds and the tress surrounding our camp area. Only three others in the area, so very peaceful.

The friends we initially came with spent about a week with us in NSW, before heading to Sydney to see their son and have now returned back to Victoria. We spent some wonderful time with them along the Macquarie River near Dubbo, at a place called Ponto Falls. Birdlife was amazing from Corellas, Galahs, Apostle Birds, Willy Wagtails, Pelicans, Ducks and so forth. Big River Red Gums once again provided the frame for the river behind, making our view magnificent. 

Artesian Bore Cunnamulla QLD

We cooked up a feast with camp oven tucker: Stew, which lasted for 3 days! Linda made rissoles and chips another night and we even had roast chicken, with crunchy potatoes in foil. Got to love outback cooking!
Then our time together was up and each went their separate ways. They to Sydney, we north-west, heading to Cobar.
As all outback roads were closed, due to rain, our plans to meet the others were thwarted twofold. One, they were still stuck on the Victorian border and two, we had no way to get to Menindee where there was a chance to rendezvous. Once again, a sad choice was made to no longer wait for our friends, as they still hoped to go to Alice Springs and Uluru. When and if they can, we still don’t know.

I didn’t want to try for a South Australian and Northern Territory border pass after the Lepers we are from Victoria! Getting a NSW and Queensland one is bad enough. And the good thing about Queensland is, we haven’t seen much of it beforehand. The other positive is, our son lives in Cairns. As we haven’t seen him in eighteen months and thought it was a good opportunity to catch up. Maybe this whole trip has been fortuitous.  
Crossing the border yesterday we travelled onto Cunnamulla. Our first stop for purely tourist purposes. Taking in the video at the Info Centre about the Great Artesian Basin, was fascinating. Then some sustenance before walking the 1.5km bushland walking trail, finding out about the indigenous trees to the area and their purposes. Both in the European and aboriginal aspects. Our final tourist site was photographing the ‘Cunnamulla Fella’. 

We are now travelling west and are hopeful of finding opals at Eulo. And maybe dinosaurs at Winton, or one of the many other places which seem to have these prehistoric monsters hidden beneath the ground. Sounds exciting to me!