Part 6

Big Sky Country 

Sitting at Cooper’s Creek on the Birdsville Track, the grey dust swirling around us, makes for very trying conditions. This will be my last post for the trip with South Australia calling for a seven-day lockdown. Therefore, we are heading homeward bound, if allowed. We have met up with the other fellow travellers we initially planned to go away with, but as you may remember Covid also became an issue for us a back in May. It never seems to end this endless cycle of lockdowns. I do pity the poor business people. Politicians still get paid, but what about small business? Enough of the groaning, we still have had a marvellous holiday. When last I wrote we were to stay with our son and family in Cairns, which we did for ten days. Due to work commitments our son had to work, but we were able to meet his partner and son, sharing many happy and fond moments with them. We did a few day trips around Cairns not previously seen before by us.

Shipwreck at Yarrabah

A trip out to east Trinity Beach and Yarrabah was a highlight. Yarrabah is an aboriginal community at the end of the road south-east of Cairns. The scenery was spectacular as we climbed the mountain range before plummeting again to the beach below. A few shipwrecks from days gone-by harboured in the foreshore. People from this community, although isolated from the general population, didn’t appeared perturbed by a couple of foreigners driving around. After seeing as much of this neck of the woods as we could, back to the mountain range and homeward bound. I’m sure if you travelled this road often your brakes wouldn’t last very long!

As per all beaches in Cairns, they have a large tidal mud-flat area with some white sand at some places. East Trinity was such a place. We didn’t investigate any further than a passing car window will provide, as once again crocodiles, sharks and stingers pass through these waters… all the time! One weekend we were taken by our son, to Ellis Beach. A pleasant beach where people were swimming. (Crazy or what? There was a net and lifeguards on duty, so maybe it was sort of okay?) We met our son and partner at the Botanical Gardens earlier and wandered the never-ending paths throughout the grounds, even showing the locals a new section not seen before. The conservatory. With orchids galore and other delicate species, it was photo opportunity every which-way you turned.

Jade Tree - Botanic Garden, Cairns

Once we discovered as much flora as we could, it was onto Ellis Beach, where lunch was eaten under the cool shade sails in perfect sunny weather. Time was beginning to pass and there was one more ‘hot spot’ on the list to see. A ‘secret’ waterfall at the back of Edmonton (whoops, let that one out of the bag. I guess not so secret anymore.) Walking down a bush path, through the vines and trees lining the path, within a short time we come across a waterfall. Small in width, but the length made up for the diminutive breadth. As far as the eye could see, the falls extended. These days I tend not to attempt climbing too much as my balance ‘aint what it used to be’. But under coercion (by son) I clamber up and up to get a better vantage point of the falls. He was correct, it is more spectacular the further up you go, but was it worth it for me? The answer was obvious two days later, when I could hardly move my left leg. I, unbeknown to me, injured my quadricep as I could hardly walk. Up and down the steps in the van agony for a full week after. All good now though, but no more waterfalls!

The 'secret' waterfall

Our ten days were up and everyone was returning to their normal routine; son to work, partner to work and little tacker, to school. It was also our turn to leave and continue the journey down the track. We had now made contact with the other party and were soon to join them. Leaving Cairns, I had one more item to complete before leaving the FNQ – catch up with my brother. As he lives in Townsville and they were in a Covid area, I asked if he would like to come and meet us in Innisfail? It is quite a drive for him and luckily, he was on a day off from work. After meeting for lunch and a brief, but wonderful catchup it was onward up the Great Dividing Range and heading south. We made our way down the Kennedy Highway and the beautiful scenic Hann Highway, before arriving in Hughenden. One fortuitous time as we were driving the Hann Highway, we came upon a Telstra outpost. “Stop, stop here” I say to my husband. “We have full reception” (out in the middle of absolutely nowhere!) I am due to take a phone call from The Alfred Haematology Department at 1:40pm on this day. We are not going to make it another one hundred kilometres into a major town before this, so this is our only opportunity. We had lunch and a drink, before the phone call came. All good! And I thank my Guardian Angel for looking out for me one more time! Finally, we arrive in Hughenden where a quick fuel up and check the museum are a must. More dinosaurs!

Dinosaur - Hughenden

Onto Winton (again) to catch up with the others. This time a discussion was made about the best way to get home. Birdsville seemed the ideal place as only one border pass was required, without quarantining (as in NSW). Once again out towards Boulia. Yes, more moon rocks as we encouraged the others to find their fossil too. It was exciting to see others as enthusiastic as I was in finding these relics of a past time. The traffic to Boulia this time was continual, as we learned the Boulia Camel Races were on the coming weekend. The road is bitumen, but very narrow. When passing or overtaking it is best to get off the road completely and stop, hoping the other driver will stay on the ‘black stuff’ and not throw stones at our windscreen. Some drivers don’t understand this outback rule, and plough on through. We now have a picturesque windscreen with three little stars in it! Washing and a few essentials in Birdsville, out to Big Red as we had never been there before and onto the Birdsville Track. We were to stay at the Mungerannie Pub (halfway down) but have been informed SA has just called a seven-day Lockdown. Now where do we go? Pub will close at 6:00pm tonight and we are not to stay there. So here we sit on the dusty Cooper and wait. The only benefit of where we are is the wonderous sky at night. Stars, planets and the moon extend one-hundred and eighty degrees around us.

Old Ruins on Birdsville Track

We still live in the ‘lucky country’ – Covid is just a nasty little blight in our life - hopefully. Postscript: We made it down the Birdsville track, mostly unscathed. A wire on one of the vans came adrift, one fridge door made an exit, microwave did a bit of a shuffle, but all tyres still intact. On entering semi-civilisation Marree, we fuelled up, grabbed some lunch and headed to Farina. One of my all-time favourite places to stay. On entering the camp-ground we noticed it was empty! This place is never empty, what was going on? Husband became very paranoid about it being shut to tourists, but the camp gate was still open. We stayed. When the farmer came to do some maintenance on the toilets next day, we asked him if it was ok to stay. He said it didn’t worry him. We ended up staying for three nights and enjoying ourselves with walks, photography and yes… more collection of rocks! We have now made our way south slightly as water and food were becoming short. Stocking up at Leigh Creek, we have now made our way to the historic township of Beltana. Well off the main road and tucked away in amongst the ruins. Once again, the wind is very uncomfortable, but the forecast looks like it might improve tomorrow, when we shall investigate the township. Only 35 people live here and the community has provided a wonderful set of amenities. Due to Covid Lockdown it was ‘highly recommended’ by the local Covid Officer to stay here till Tuesday. I can think of worse things to do.

Big Red. Start of Simpons Desert.

Even Found a Redback in the dust

Part 5 

The World of Many Colours

The endless colours in our natural world never cease to amaze me. 

From the ochre colours in the mesas; the different varieties of birds, especially the parrots; the trees and the various barks. I even spotted a ‘Painted Gum’ at the Botanical Gardens in Cairns. It may not be a native but it would have to be the most colourful eucalypt I have ever seen. 

The sky is forever changing with clouds providing an interesting aspect on an hourly basis; the brilliant sunsets with all the colour variations: scarlet, orange, yellow, mauve. And the hue of the water, especially when we visited Boodjamulla NP (Lawn Hill) – aquamarine.

Painted Gum

When I signed off last time, our mission was to see the above NP. It took a few hours to arrive at the park, travelling on gravel much of the way from our camp ground. We found many, many others doing the same as us, or coming from the park. Encountering horses on the way provided an interesting sideline. 

Once at the park, finding a car park was not an easy task. The Ranger Station was unavailable due to the Covid issues. So, to navigate the place we picked up a self-guide and followed the signposts. Unfortunately, since the heavy rain last wet season, some of the trails had been damaged, with the bridge to the Botanical Area destroyed. 

We made our way along the river, lined with palms, ferns and paperbark trees, before heading into the stony country. Massive walls of sedimentary stone to the west of us creating a cover from prevailing winds. After some climbing and rambling around rocks, we came to a vantage point overlooking the river below. Kayakers were making their approach to the next way-stop, before having to retrieve their kayak, taking it to the next level. I must admit, I was envious of them. The aquamarine of the water, the prehistoric cycads and the iron covered wall of the cavern would have been sensory overload. 

Hubby made his way down to the bottom while I remained on the top. The steep climb down and up, not to my liking: me or my lungs!

I did climb to the lookout before it was time to head back for lunch. We met some lovely ladies from Portland who we had spoken to earlier. They were trying to get back to the carpark. To help them in their dilemma we suggested they turn around and take the other track. Heading another seven kilometres into the gorge was not on their agenda! 

Boodjamulla NP

After six kilometres of many ascents and declines we finally returned to whence we started. 

As I said previously, this place was always on my bucket list. As much as it is a stunning place, the lack of access to certain parts was a disappointment. You would require a kayak, if you wish to see the best of it and spend a few days here. Would I do it again? Probably not, as there are too many other wonderous places to see first. 

From Gregory Downs we headed further north to Burketown on a bitumen road. This sleepy little hollow was very clean, neat and a paradise for fishing. That’s if you were brave enough to put your boat in. We were now in serious crocodile and shark country. 

Buying lunch at the little store there, we then travelled to the artesian bore on the outskirts of town. 

This bore was established at the beginning of European settlement. The water was not suitable for man or domestic beast, but remained a running source of fluid for the native birds and animals. 

Artesian Bore - Burketown

The colour of the mound that has arisen from the years of function, indicates the minerals present in the water. The flow certainly provided a powerful wetland for Shelducks, kangaroos and pelicans. (This is what we could see anyway).

The sealed road continued out of Burketown until we reached Leichhardt Falls on the Leichhardt River, before once again turning to gravel.  

Leichhardt Falls was our camp for the next two nights. A massive river in the wet season no doubt, but a dry fall and only billabongs now housing any water. This place was a haven for birds: The chattering Apostle Birds, wandering Kites and screeching Sulphur Crested Cockatoos. We even had a visit from a little rock wallaby. 

It was also a place of freshwater crocodiles and sharks! The water looked peaceful, but on closer inspection the barramundi found no love in this pond, with the shark devouring him as we watched on. The Cane Toad found no love here either, drowning in one of the many holes filled with water on the ledge. 

After our short stay it was on to Normanton. Once again, the washing was piling up, with supplies and fuel getting low. 

We were in Normanton a few years back, so our intention was to move on without doing too many tourist attractions. Except we found the Mutton-Hole Wetlands! A spectacular body of water housing hundreds of birds. Black and white Magpie Geese the major species. Brolgas, Apostle birds, Pelicans and Egrets the other complimentary genus. 

Liechhardt River - downstream

We also discovered the Burke and Will final camp before reaching the coast. There is very little to see these days, besides the information boards about their ill-fated journey. A few scar trees further towards their billabong, and many plaques indicating where more scar trees from other fellow explorers once stood. The ravages of time continue. Fire and floods don’t help, with nature taking back our European history. It is indicated that by 2061 all trace of the camp and trees will be eliminated. 

We ate our first meal away from camp at the notorious Purple Pub, Normanton. Pizzas all round was the order of the day! I must admit it was nice not to have to cook in such a hot climate - 30C.

The next morning on the road we came across the Cairns to Karamba Bike Riders. A group for cyclists each year ride this route for charity. One of the fellows this year was from our bike riding group, which crossed Australia with us, in 2016. 

Cairns to Karaumba bike riders

We stopped on the side of the road and spoke with a group already stationary, having their sustenance and drinks. After enquiring about our friend, we were told “he’s in the fast group. They are racing the Gulflander train from Croydon to Normanton”. 

Within a few minutes of talking with this group, the racing faction hurtle past our station. I had enough time to snap a photo, but that’s all. 

I have heard this group broke the record by seventeen minutes before racing the train into Normanton. Well done too all! Average speed 38.5kms.

We have now followed the Savannah Way across Queensland from Burketown, through the gold towns of Croydon and Georgetown finally arriving at Cairns, where we have caught up with our son and his family. 

One stop we made in Georgetown was to the Mineral Museum. An extraordinary exhibition of gems, minerals found locally and around the world. 

Agate in museum at Georgetown

Once again, the colours of the natural world are astonishing.