Cape Kerauden to Derby

Hot, hot and hot is all I can say about the weather up here at the moment. We have even resorted to air conditioning in a caravan park. Usually we like the unpowered sites but we relented at 31.5C feels like 32.7c. Van was 36C when we opened it up. Yes, we are in Derby for the next two days. 

We stayed at Cape Kerauden to see the Staircase to the Moon, which we waited (it seemed like hours on a rocky outcrop ) to photograph this full moon phenomenon. As the full moon rises across the mud flats it creates a light effect similar to a staircase.  Was it worth it? I'd say the hype was better than the actual event. 

After leaving the big flat area of Cape Kerauden we then headed to Barn Hill Station. This has always been a favourite of mine from the last time around and only hoped the other party liked it as much as I did. And it didn't disappoint! In fact it was been enhanced with a lovely coffee shop with cakes and daily fresh bread. A bowling green completes the area here before finding a great spot, just off the cliff, but a view with the aquamarine ocean in our sights. 

The rock formation around the beach area is spectacular, add to that the white sand and the scene is one of the best you will find for pure relaxation. So much so, we stayed an extra night. No fish were caught but the boys tried very hard. They didn't launch the boat as saw too many others being bogged, calling for assistance to extricate them from the sand. With much reluctance and after a coffee we headed out towards Broome. 

The Broome Gateway Caravan Park became our home for the next 2 days. 23 kms out from Broome and a lovely relaxed, spacious park was found here. Highly recommend it if you want to get out of the rat-race in Broome where you are squashed in like sardines and twice the price. Only disadvantage (if you consider it) you have to go unpowered. No powered sites.

Well we went into Broome and yes, it was busy. Oh how I hate busy! People everywhere, cars everywhere and over expensive pearl, diamond and clothing shops. If you wanted a manicure or pedicure or massage or laser treatment then Broome is your place. Thank goodness they still had a good pie shop, even if it did take a bit to find it. In fact walking down the Main Street in Chinatown, an elderly woman says to her partner "I just want a normal pie!" the boutique eating places didn't cut it for her.

Grocery shopping was the main event for us this first day with the second day set for Cable Beach, camels and whatever other sights we could do.

After a very casual morning at our park, we started into Broome for the second time. This time we looked at the Port of Broome with trucks running up and down the bridge carrying some type of mineral for export on a large boat. They were loaded in containers with a huge crane at the boat end taking containers off replacing them with empty ones. 

On the way back into town we stopped off at the Cemetery to check out the wonderful Japanese section as a tribute to the Japanese pearl divers who were so prevalent in the Broome history of pearling. The entire cemetery has a very interesting arrangement of Indigenous, Chinese and European representation. 

Then back into town for a bit more shopping (I've lost a pair of 3/4 pants along the way and wanted to replace them). Alas all the shops had winter stock in and nothing of my requirements, even the Op Shop.

Back on the road and out to Gantheaume Point where the lighthouse reigns supreme. The lighthouse keeper house would have a lovely view over the bay of Cable beach and Indian Ocean. Not sure I'd want to be out there in a cyclone. There are supposed to be dinosaur prints in the rocks out here too, but we only found the make believe ones. Still, the rock formations were terrific. 

Finally after discovering all the locals like to hang out on the beach at Gantheaume beach, we made our way over to the infamous Cable Beach. People, people everywhere. 4X4 all over the beach lined up for the sunset and camels. The problem we found was the camels were going away from us when we arrived. We would have to wait at least another 1/2 hour before their return. 

And return they did, with everyone jockeying for position for the best photo. 

As the sun set for one more day we left the good looking people to the remainder of Cable Beach and Broome. I've been here twice and don't need to go back. Byron Bay, Airly Beach, Port Douglas and Broome all have the same vibe to me. Money, money, money.

Late back at camp and quite exhausted, a nice corn-beef sandwich (thanks Sandra for cooking it) was enjoyed with my red wine under the starry milky-way. A big day and with Broome in our rear view mirror it was time to move to Derby. 

A quick look at the old Boab Prison Tree and in to find a park. A bit of washing and update of the blog, we will wait for the sun to lose some of its kick before venturing too far today. 

Derby is more my style of place with the less hectic pace being left behind. Let's see what we can find tomorrow. 

Barn Hill Station

Last coffee at Barn Hill

Downtown Chinatown - Broome

Japanese Cemetery section 

Look closely and see the plane coming into Broome

Gantheaume Point beach

Cable Beach - pre sunset

Willare Roadhouse

Prison Boab tree - Derby

Newman to Cape Kerauden

Hello from a windswept WA at Cape Kerauden. Our idea here was for the boys to finally do a bit of fishing and maybe put the boat in. Alas the boat has stayed firmly in place on the top of the car as the wind, once again has reared its ugly head. 

The boys did go fishing on low tide last night and caught a few fish, but only Barry caught one of size - a Trevally. They walked out to the 'rock' which shows up at low tide, but covered with high tide, such is the tidal flow up in the north. 

Our sub station being transported 

But for our touring, we left Newman following the Great Northern Highway until the turnoff to Karijini NP. A bite to eat and drink on the side of the road at the turnoff, saw a huge load being hauled through to Tom Price. The boys said it was a new sub-station loaded on two massive haulage trucks and trailers. I think Barry counted 128 tires on one of the trucks. They would be doing about 10kms per hour, so offered to let us go first, but we said no as we had only started our morning tea. As it was we didn't catch them as we turned off to Karijini NP first.  

Karijini, once again was beautiful, although many of the gorges were closed due to wet weather the previous day and also the chance of more rain the next day. But Dales Gorge didn't disappoint. There were a few changes since we were there 10 years ago but, still the beauty of the area was spectacular. 

Ferny Pool - Karijini

We were down to only one extra couple now, as as stated previously, the ones with the 'colds' decided to go on.  All the camp-sites in Karijini were taken and only drive in, drive out was allowed, so with fewer vans to worry about parking, this worked out well. 

Much to my surprise all of us made it down to Ferny Pool, (including me) after completing about 200 steps (it felt like 2000!). Rock formations and lovely waterfalls all made the journey worth it. 

Coming back up was a chore and not an easy task, but with plenty of rests along the way we finally made it up the stairs. 

Onwards again, back on the Northern Highway were we found a free camp atop a gorge, with nice views. A campfire was lit and a small car arrived with a single girl driving. We asked her is she would like to join our party for the night around the fire? 

Elyse, from France made her way over and we all spent a wonderful night discussing touring experiences, and our different countries. It was Elyse's first campfire while being in Australia, so we felt very priveliged in having her company.  The thing that made the biggest impression on her about Aust. people was how nomadic we were. Most people in France didn't go far from home. 

Rain to start our day

After our lovely evening, the thunder and lightening rolled in with rain battering the van for much of the night. Next morning Elyse waved goodbye from her car and we slowly packed up, trying to avoid the mud and water underfoot. 

The rain continued much of the way as we headed into Port Hedland for the night. Finally sunshine was found when entering Port Hedland. We did catch up with our other travellers, who had continued their journey on their own, which was nice to say g'day.

A night in a confined 'free camp' and we were out of there, on our way to Marble Bar. Once again the scenery was marvellous with ever-changing hills, flat country and the occasional cattle seen. Mine trucks still hounded us, as obviously there were mines at Marble Bar and beyond.  

Finally Marble Bar was in our sights with a great entrance depicting the history of the town. Indigenous, mining, farming etc. Also the 'claim to fame' of being the hottest place in Australia. Today was not one of them at a pleasant 26C. 

Just add water Jasper colours 

Unfortunately this place was lost some of its pizazz, with the pub not being open until 4:30pm. No counter lunch - darn. The general store still operates, bit the rest of the place looks sad and tired. Thank goodness the water way is still here, along with he Jasper. Yes, we did get a sample or two for my garden.

Back on the road and find a camp for the night. The last two days had been blowing furiously with wind from the east, so find and camp and hunker down. 

Next day, wind was still up, so we decided to only do a few KMs before camping again and spent it reading, with the boys throwing a lure in the De Grey River. (Nothing caught).

Finally the wind abated and we headed into Cape Kerauden. Not the most picturesque place, except for the spectacular colour of the Indian Ocean. Barry even took a dip in it, while a few of us only paddled. Apparently there is a shark alert in place for this part of the coastline. Some people have been here for 3 weeks. Not sure what they do beside fishing, but each to their own. 

Port Hedland

Head off tomorrow towards Barn Hill, were we might stay. Who knows as I hate agendas and regimentation. Bye for now.

Laverton to Newman

While I have internet, I must keep up with the Blog. It can become quite a wieldy beast if left too long, that's why the second blog for the day.

Now we had left the dusty roads behind, we turned northbound on the 'black stuff'. I must stay here, although we did have lots of dust and rough roads, we all came through fairly unscathed. Yes a few minor hiccups, but all in all pretty good. I'm sure our newbies will be cleaning their van and car for the next six months trying to remove all the red pigment of the dust. I hate to tell them, but they have been christened now with the red flag that is the outback and will never quite be rid of it. The dust just keeps on giving even when you don't expect it. Love it!

Meekatharra

We travelled through some quaint WA towns. Leonora, Sandstone, Meekatharra before  finally landing in Newman. Our newbies final destination, where they will spend until December with their son, who works up here for BHP in the Whaleback mine. The roads up here, although nicely sealed and very little potholes, did place a strain on our drivers with all the massive road trains carrying equipment, goods and new machinery throughout the Northern Highway. I have never seen so many BIG trucks at one time. The UHF radio certainly comes in handy with all these loads coming and going. And the mining in this area is unbelievable with gold, nickel and iron all represented. You can't go very far before another turnoff to a mining operation. The entire place looks like it is being dug up. 

The towns we went through, were only small to be servicing such a workforce. No doubt the mines have their own supplies. All I kept thinking about was the logistics of moving everything up here. The fuel, the food, groceries and meat. Let alone the parts required to keep all the machinery on the go. All I can say is WOW!

Found this little gem outside Sandstone

We have now been in Newman for a few days, to catch our breath and refill our groceries, fuel and food supplies. We leave our newbies here with hopefully, a new appreciation of our wonderful country. No doubt they will have a great time catching up with their son and other friends made here years ago, when they too lived here. 

In appreciation for their tour they did show us the sights of Newman - lookout, Opthalimia Dam (which was closed) and the Tropic of  Capricorn - Bar & Grill included. They also put some music on (from their son the singer and BHP worker) at the local Purple Hotel. Thanks John and Veronica we will miss your enthusiasm and John's fire lighting skills early in the morning. Good luck with your clean! Make sure the G&T's are fully in stock before you start Veronica.

We head out tomorrow toward Karijini NP then maybe Marble Bar. Another couple in our group have caught a horrible bug and are very under the weather with sinus issues and a bad cough. They are also now talking about heading straight to the coast and going home. No more dusty roads for them.  Well we will see what happens, but good luck to them if that's what they choose. Thanks for coming this far and I hope you get over the bug soon.   

Till next time, stay well and keep warm. (I've heard its pretty darn cold at home).