Part 3

All that glitters is not gold!

It’s official! We are now certified fossickers. Having a fossicker’s licence for the next month allows us the pickings of any sites within Queensland.

And we haven’t been tardy in finding our first ‘colour’. But I’ll get to that later. 

I need to update you on the find I had back before Eromanga. Remember I emailed the Natural History Museum with some photos? Well, a return email informed me, I didn’t find a ‘portal’ or a ‘dragon’s backbone’ but a very interesting weathering effect on ironstone. I like the dragon backbone theory better, but will accept they know a little more than I do. Oh well, maybe next time. 

The email I received re the photos

Meanwhile up the track, and I do mean track, we took the road less travelled between Jundah and Winton. This track lead us through some great Mulga country, with a magnificent mountain range to the west of us. The colours of the outback never cease to amaze and inspire me. From deep red of the land, to the grey-green of the spinifex; the land forever changes depending on the light of the day. The road was quiet, with only three other vehicles passing us the entire two hundred and fifty kms. 

We stopped on the banks of the glorious Mayne River. We were by ourselves in this camp and even though it was remote, felt at complete peace with nature. 

The bird life was outstanding with Great Herons, Egrets, Pigeons. Even my Willy Wagtail made another appearance. Right on dusk, a raucous sounding from the trees echoed across the campsite. Red-tailed Black Cockatoos. Not enough light for photographs, but striking to behold. You can breathe deeply out here and feel the ‘serenity’.

Mayne River camp

Onwards next day and we pass the turn off to Opalton. We pass the sign vowing to return. Our mission today is to see the Dinosaur Stampede exhibition twenty kilometres further toward Winton.

Once again, no disappointment in this complex. Money doesn’t seem to be an issue where dinosaurs once ruled. Coming into the complex was stunning. From the flat dry country, we entered hills of red rocks, spinifex and gum trees. The undulating nature led us to the dinosaur centre. A large stainless steel covered building, set in amongst the mountain range.

As Molly Meldrum said “do yourself a favour” and check out this place. 

To find this place initially and then to dedicate the hours is amazing. The tedious work, patience, and dedication the initial palaeontologist’s and volunteers completed is outstanding. 

Following our tour, we then headed back the kilometres to the Opalton turnoff. 

Turning, the dirt road we now encountered was no worse than travelled previously; until the corner heading north!  Then it was down to twenty kilometres per hour as corrugations became the constant. 

A road less travelled - Jundah to Winton

It was now becoming late in the day and we would normally have found a camp for the night, but the small mullock heaps which now dotted our horizon kept our mind seeking Oplaton. I didn’t think miners (of any sort) would appreciate us pulling up camp near one of their sites. (I’ve also watched too many movies about desperados).

Now passing a sign indicating ‘Fossicking Allowed Here’ gave us hope that our camp was only a short run from here. Opalton finally came into sight with a rustic ‘bush camping’ sign pointing to the left.

Dinosaur footprints

Heading the car into the camp we were greeted with ‘happy hour’ at the community information area. A donation of $2.50 per person, per night and a ‘pull over anywhere’ the recommendation, we were set up for the next couple of days. 

Allan was the gentleman who issued our licences. A short explanation, from one of the semi-permanent ladies, about what opal looks like and where to go, and we were on our fossicking way.

Up early, unhook van and out to seek our fortune. The first twenty minutes proved our best haul of opal. Glinting in the sunlight, I picked-up a piece just near the front tyre - a small piece and a purple colour. A few other pieces later and much more time, we moved on. 

As I said in a previous post, I love rocks. And this place didn’t disappoint. In fact, there were so many ‘nice’ rocks, I had to ban both of us from pulling any more back to the van. At one stage I had a pocket for rocks (general) and a pocket for opal. The pocket of rocks – full. Opals – nah, just a few bits. But at least I did find ‘colour’ which was my real motivation.

Opalton was a b onus on our trip, as I didn’t have any notion about its existence. Once a bustling town of over six-hundred people, all seeking their fortune one way or another, now no permanent resident. It was a positive experience in every way.

The people were helpful and friendly; the camp ample including campfire. Shower and flush toilet a bonus. The community centre a hub of activity each day at 4:00pm for debriefing, bragging about the days finds or general conversation with other like-minded people travelling the outback. 

My Opal find

Leaving Opalton, we were feeling a tinge of sadness. But we needed to head to civilisation after eating the contents of the last tin of baked beans the previous night. Other supplies were also severely diminished. Especially for hubby – no grog! 

We now sit at Winton; washing done, shopping complete and alcohol purchased. The Dinosaur Canyon our quest tomorrow before heading to Boulia to find Moon rocks!

Winton itself is a fascinating town. Very famous for the Banjo Patterson poet and Waltzing Matilda fame. Other eccentric attractions include Arno’s Wall and Musical Fence. Hubby found the Truck Museum stimulating as he reminisced over all the old engines, he plied his trade on eons ago. 

Arno's Wall - Winton

I wonder where the next track will lead? Don’t be surprised if we take another track less travelled. 

 

       

    

 

     

   

 

Eulo to Windorah 

Sitting on top of the world at Stonehenge. Yes, Australia does have a Stonehenge, albeit with no giant stones, but lots of smaller stones including the never-ending gibber.  

We crossed the Cooper Creek near Windorah this morning after staying on its banks about ten kilometres out of town. They don’t call this flat, plain, channel country for nothing. Travelling over numerous flood plains with some water in quite a few of the channels we have landed here on what is classified as a Jump-Up. 

Sturt was the first explorer to name the Cooper Creek and decided because it had no flow to it, a creek it had to be and not a river. Much of the Cooper is a series of billabongs which flow only after good rainfall. Eventually making its way down through Innamincka and onto Lake Eyre.  

Before continuing on our journey, let me take you back to where the last Blog post left off. On the hunt for dinosaurs and opals. 

Eulo, our first stop. An interesting man at the Opal shop gave us all the low-down on some fascinating conspiracies of today’s world. A smoker, with only one leg and an old opal miner from way back. I’m sure you have the picture. Beside his conspiracies he was a very helpful bloke on opals, and rocks within his store. The store, quite old, but kept in good condition for an old place. Hubby saw an old double-decker bus in the backyard and asked “does it still work”? 

Boulder Opal

“Yep” came the reply without hesitation, “she keeps the north-westerly wind from hittin’ the house”. Typical outback response. Priceless! Well, he was so nice I had to buy some opal (as I’m afraid that might be the closest, I get to the real thing). Plus, some attractive cut rocks, not exactly opals but appealing all the same. Oh, and a necklace: stone with small purple opal, hung by barb-wire! 

After this short stop it was onto Thargomindah. A quaint town on the banks of the Bulloo River.

I love the outback names; how they roll off the tongue. Here we stayed in our first van park for the couple of weeks away, so far. Washing and general clean up, the aim of the stay. The bird life was amazing, as being so close to the river we had Fairy-Martens darting and diving outside out windows most of the day. Colourful parrots, galahs, corellas, and of course the cheeky Willy-Wagtail. (More about him later). Thargomindah is not a large town but had a good size supermarket. Prices were expensive, but in the out-back you need to allow for this and not complain. If this town is not here, where do you get your supplies? Onto the Info Centre where we met up with another couple previously at the Biddegolly NP. (A large natural inland lake system, where we’d stopped for lunch). After talking with a lovely young lady about what to do in the town. She suggested a tour of the Old Power Station (first electric lights in town outside London and Paris); followed by the Old Hospital (with resident ghost) and ending with the Old Police Station. 

The power station and hospital were brilliant. Videos and holograms explaining how and what and where and when. You entered with a swipe key and waited (patiently) for the blinds to be drawn and the drama to commence. Alas, the police station was too much to take as nothing worked in here. The girl at the info centre did comment that people didn’t like getting locked in the cell. I wonder why? 

Pelican Point is a point of interest and is one of the locals favourite watering holes. Situated on the Bulloo River a natural weir provides a catchment for a swimming pool. BBQs, picnic tables and chairs are well situated below some magnificent Red Gum trees. 

Hubby even rescued a Yabby net from under a rock, someone had left. With some ingenuity and a tent peg, he had it sitting on the bank ready for the owner to collect. 

Leaving Thargomindah, the next morning we headed west before taking a northly diversion. We were still yet to find dinosaurs and reading the local tourist magazine, I’d picked up in the info centre, thought Eromanga might be a remarkable place. I was right! 

But let me take a moment to indulge in a fantasy of mine while walking around a camp site about seventy kilometres from Eromanga. To make it even more thought-provoking, we were the only ones there. 

I love rocks! Colours, texture, shapes, sizes. All intrigue me. Where did they come from? What are they made of? Every place I stop at (camp wise), I have my head to the ground and wander, in search of … anything that takes my fancy. On wandering this particular camp-site a small willy-wagtail followed me. Everywhere I went here he is dancing and twittering in front of me. While there was shrub protection he was fluttering up and down in front, to my side, back to the front, around the back.

WWT in flight. look closely!

 

As much as I was paying attention to him, I stumbled onto a strange shaped black piece of stone?, in the middle of a sandy coloured floor. I took a picture and wandered back to camp, excited to show hubby. He looked at it and said “there is another weird structure over there you need to look at. It’s just under the tree and is round.” Meanwhile the WWT is doing his calling and bantering in this particular tree Hubby pointed out. I walked over and found the very distinctive rock???, in the ground as described. I just finished a book from Nora Roberts called ‘The Awakening’ and I swear this black rock formation looked like a portal to another world, if ever I saw it! (or the backbone of a dragon)! WWT thought so too as he flew off and we didn’t see him again that day. 

Wierd black 'portal' with dragon backbone

Now enough with the imagination, onwards with the real story. 

Maybe petrified wood

Corey doing somme scraping.

 

Eromanga didn’t disappoint. In fact, I didn’t really know what to expect when we drove up to a magnificent building that could have passed for five-star accommodation. The Eromanga Natural History Museum is something to behold. A multimillion-dollar complex with theatrette, coffee shop, souvenirs and so forth, which has only been open for nine weeks. Didn’t we feel special! And a great big bone in the middle! A mind-blowing tour of the factory with all the dinosaur bones, casts, machinery for cleaning bones and a lecture of how the discoveries are made, had us both enthralled and overwhelmed. So much information, so many questions to ask. Corey, our guide, rattled off the names of prehistoric monsters as if it was his mother’s name. 

An hour and a half past before we traced our steps back to the administration building with our minds racing and a new appreciation of our earth’s ancestry. Oh, and I did show Corey my pictures of the weird stuff back at our camp. He was extremely interested and suggested my first picture might be petrified wood. He had no explanation for the ‘dragons back’, but liked the name! He asked me to email the pictures to the Centre, where a more experienced person will take a look. I have done this and await with some anticipation of my (our – hubby and my) find. 

Dinosaur leg bone (cast on outside. Brown bit bone)

In the meantime, heading out of Eromanga we headed to Quilpie. Another of those remote outback towns that have always captivated me. The only other time I was on Quilpie’s soil was back several years ago (7) as I touched down in an aeroplane on my way home from Birdsville. 

Being told to “get out of the outback, it’s too remote for you” (as I did have a medical issue), hubby and I had to leave our vehicle in Birdsville and fly, bus and train it back to East Gippsland. Well, I’m giving the outback another shot and hopefully this time, I can behave myself. And as for Quilpie, I didn’t find that much to do there, so moved on. 

Windorah was next on our list as another town I touched down in seven years back. Another disappointment! Not much here to attract the visitor beside the Cooper Creek a few kilometres down the track. Milk in the service station - out of date. Very little on the shelves and few people in the township. I’m not sure how these little places survive, or why? 

Jundah was the best little place we found in the Barcoo Shire. A near new service station provided much needed sustenance before heading out towards Longreach. 

View from our camp site at Stonehenge

I’m not sure which road we will take from here. Winton or Longreach is on the cards. I can see more dinosaurs are in sight and perhaps the odd opal as well. Oh, my goodness there’s the WWT again. I wonder where he will lead me this time; as I can see rocks too!

2021 Trip

The Great Escape.

Someone once said to me “you can plan all you want, but God will decide.”

Well, it appears God did decide! Or at least Covid -19 and the politicians decided. 

Due to leave on June 1^st, the Victorian government called a snap lockdown for ALL Victoria. It was now the 27^th of May. Following this information, I stamped my feet, swore a lot and made the instant decision to throw (literally) clothing and food into the, already prepared van, and head across the state border before being locked in. I wasn’t prepared to waste another week of my life in a lockdown, which didn’t even affect our region of Victoria.

The closest state border for us was 3 hours away, so we needed to go and go fast. We tried to rally the other parties who were coming with us to do the same, but for various reasons we were the only ones to make it out in time. (They sit at the border as I write, waiting for restrictions to ease and maybe, make the journey across. We are now in Queensland!). 

Our trip was not originally in the direction of Queensland. We were to follow my Mother’s journal. My father, mother and a couple of others made the trek across the Central Desert Road into Western Australia in 1992. 

We were to follow their travels, trekking up the Oodnadatta Track, into Alice Springs, onto Uluru before heading west into true desert country. 

I found my Mum’s journal before she passed away some 4 years ago and after reading bits and pieces remarked on how intrepid they were almost 30 years back. Yes, they had four-wheel-drives back then, but few other conveniences. We now have our off-road vans, with toilet, shower, washing machine and microwave! I wonder what Mum would think of all this?

Warri Camp NSW

As I said, we high-tailed it out of Victoria and spent the first night on the road being buffered by high winds and cold weather. Sleet greeted us the next morning. One other couple came with us in a last-minute rush. Not in the original party, but friends nevertheless. 

We travelled up the Monaro Highway, with sleet and small patches of snow finding its way to the ground. The heater in the car on full tilt! We wanted to avoid all major towns and instead of trying to go through Canberra, circumnavigated the entire state via some outback roads and some wonderful scenery. Snow had stopped by now and the vistas from the top-of the-world were spectacular.

Our next camp was by a river with large River Red Gums for company, along with some others panning for gold. The company was good, the fire burned brightly and all was good with our life. The only issue I had, because the other parties hadn’t made it out, was guilt! 

One of the gang initially coming, asked if we were stopping at Cann River on our way out? My response was “NO! Just get across the border ASAP!” They didn’t make it!

Ponto Falls Camp NSW

This feeling of guilt haunted me for quite a time, before I came to realize, we have choices in our life. Some choices are hard to make, especially when it involves others; some are easier, usually as an individual. Some choices are made for you and you need to adjust. Such as the choice not to go to Western Australia as originally planned. 

With state borders closed and permits required everywhere you go, outback roads impassable due to rain in the regions, we felt our choice to go to Queensland was the best option for us. 

Yes, we did some mice at Ponto Falls. Check the top of the tyre.

I now sit in sunny Queensland with the birds and the tress surrounding our camp area. Only three others in the area, so very peaceful.

The friends we initially came with spent about a week with us in NSW, before heading to Sydney to see their son and have now returned back to Victoria. We spent some wonderful time with them along the Macquarie River near Dubbo, at a place called Ponto Falls. Birdlife was amazing from Corellas, Galahs, Apostle Birds, Willy Wagtails, Pelicans, Ducks and so forth. Big River Red Gums once again provided the frame for the river behind, making our view magnificent. 

Artesian Bore Cunnamulla QLD

We cooked up a feast with camp oven tucker: Stew, which lasted for 3 days! Linda made rissoles and chips another night and we even had roast chicken, with crunchy potatoes in foil. Got to love outback cooking!
Then our time together was up and each went their separate ways. They to Sydney, we north-west, heading to Cobar.
As all outback roads were closed, due to rain, our plans to meet the others were thwarted twofold. One, they were still stuck on the Victorian border and two, we had no way to get to Menindee where there was a chance to rendezvous. Once again, a sad choice was made to no longer wait for our friends, as they still hoped to go to Alice Springs and Uluru. When and if they can, we still don’t know.

I didn’t want to try for a South Australian and Northern Territory border pass after the Lepers we are from Victoria! Getting a NSW and Queensland one is bad enough. And the good thing about Queensland is, we haven’t seen much of it beforehand. The other positive is, our son lives in Cairns. As we haven’t seen him in eighteen months and thought it was a good opportunity to catch up. Maybe this whole trip has been fortuitous.  
Crossing the border yesterday we travelled onto Cunnamulla. Our first stop for purely tourist purposes. Taking in the video at the Info Centre about the Great Artesian Basin, was fascinating. Then some sustenance before walking the 1.5km bushland walking trail, finding out about the indigenous trees to the area and their purposes. Both in the European and aboriginal aspects. Our final tourist site was photographing the ‘Cunnamulla Fella’. 

We are now travelling west and are hopeful of finding opals at Eulo. And maybe dinosaurs at Winton, or one of the many other places which seem to have these prehistoric monsters hidden beneath the ground. Sounds exciting to me!    

Part 8 - Final for 2019

We made the Tip! Wahoo, after a false start 5 years ago, the mission has been completed! 

We have now started south again for the final leg of the Cape and then home. But let me retrack a bit first.

After departing Weipa, we headed north, past the Andoom Mine (Rio Tinto) and onto the little community of Mapoon. Aboriginal owned and run this little township was a picture to behold. Flowerbeds at either entrance, little rubbish and a very colourful Café. The only downside was the number of dogs freely roaming the streets – in packs! After picking up our Park Pass to Cullen Point and a nice coffee, we were on our way out to Old Mapoon. Old Mapoon is known as the site of first contact between Europeans and Aboriginals of Australia. A Dutchman Janzoon, in 1606 had two encounters; the first friendly enough, the second not so friendly. After navigating and mapping along the east Carpentaria coastline, he decided he didn’t want to know much more about the place. Obviously, he couldn’t recognise Bauxite or didn’t understand its uses, else he may have staked a claim. 

Captain James Cook in 1770, made note in his journal that although he claimed Australia as we know it today, for Briton, he was aware the Dutch (and Spanish: Torres) had been here previously and maybe they had first claim on the land. Needless to say, the British Navy didn’t like that thought and edited it from the journal. 

Later in Mapoon’s history, the missionaries came and tried to save the native souls, bringing in many islanders, and other tribes from surrounding areas. It was also the time of the ‘stolen generation’ with many displaced children being taken from their families. 

Old Mapoon was then ‘relocated’ to near Barmaga (on the Tip) in 1963, after the Queensland government and Comalco, (forerunner to Rio Tinto) signed a document. (Not sure on the politics on that one)! Several years later some of the original owners of Mapoon went back and claimed their place in the world.  So today we have both – Mapoon and New Mapoon. 

Now Cullen Point was an interesting place, sitting at the mouth of the Wenlock and Ducie Rivers (East side) and Gulf of Carpentaria (West side). Our camp site had waterfront views over the two rivers and gulf. Thank goodness we were sitting out on the tip as a gentle breeze blew most of the time cooling our 30C day. The site was white/grey sand, and reflecting from the ground made it extremely warm. Our traveller fellow, under instruction from hubby made his way around to his sight, but unfortunately became bogged in the sand. Never fear! The winch was swung into action as the two males were now in their element. No 4WD adventure is complete unless you get to use your winch – apparently!

Following a few tense and harrowing moments for the onlookers, all was back to the way it should be. Winch safely tucked away hopefully not to be used again on the trip. It was now time for the boys to unload the boat and test their ability at the angling side of things here. Weipa had proved slightly successful, maybe the gulf and two rivers would be more fruitful. After travelling in and out of channels and rivers only a handful of Spanish Mackerel could be caught. On return to shore, they thought it a good idea to try their hand at ‘shark fishing’. Not a very bright idea, I thought, as many sharks inhabit these areas. Our neighbours, trying their hand at Fly fishing, were being chewed off, almost every cast. Hubby did catch one shark (you could see the fins), but it broke the line. To encourage the sharks closer, they enticed it with the Mackerel, caught earlier. Well it worked! In comes a shark, no further than 6’ from the shoreline. Swimming merrily about, devouring all the dead fish caught. All 3 fins of him! With the show over, it was time to make for home. Boat reloaded and a quick look for turtle eggs. (Our neighbours were walking the beach the previous night and saw two turtles). We found no sign of turtles, but the ‘logs’ on the beach opposite appeared to move greatly! Once again up here, fabulous beaches but also deadly; shark, croc, stingers.

Next morning the breeze had turned into a moderate wind and time to move out if we didn’t want to be sandblasted. Back into Mapoon, (one more coffee) through Weipa (one last time) and onto York Dam for the night. A wonderful place beside a dam, specially put in for tourists from the York Station (a few kms further down the track). A ramshackle toilet (door off) but beautiful blue water in the dam. If adventurous enough you could swim. 

Next morning, we were seriously going to the ‘Tip’. No more detours, no more ‘let’s look at this’… to the TIP! We were now conscious of time, and the lack of it, if we were to be home late August. 

One of our beautiful sunsets

Out of York Dam, we made a short-cut through Batavia Downs (the original Station encompassing Weipa). We travelled quickly as the dirt road was well pressed with few corrugations.  Turning onto the Peninsula Development Road (Cape) and we faced a whole other road. Rough, corrugations and dust! A few more kms up the road and we spot the Moreton Telegraph Station. Time for reprieve and to see the old station and what it has to offer. Yes, more coffee but also some great paraphernalia of the overland telegraph from Cairns to the Tip. We also spotted a poster of the Steve Irwin Habitat for the Wild. An area reserved for wildlife between the Wenlock and Ducie rivers which used to be the Bertiehugh Station. They have researchers from around the world come to work out here. Who knew?

We by-passed Bramwell Station and continued on the PDR (Peninsula Development Road).

Fruit Bat Falls - the closest we came to the OTR (Old Telegraph Road)

Our male traveller thought we could check out ‘Gunshot’ on the Old Telegraph Track, but we put our foot down and left him in more dust! Corrugations really started to beat the tyres, car and van around now, slowing us to 20kms most for the time. Will we ever get there? A slight reprieve with some bitumen, made it bearable as we finally tumbled into Jardine River, ready to camp and obtain our pass across the ferry and into NPA land. 

A pleasant camp overnight then it was onto the ferry. OMG! 

The ferryman was extremely pleasant. Hubby had already been down the night before to check out the approach and exit from the ferry. A friend our ours a few years back bent/broke his towbar getting on/off this ferry. I was not looking forward to this. 9 minutesfor them to cross we were finally on the last leg of our journey. 

Jardine River Ferry 

Stopped at the sign before being directed to enter the ferry, I’m trying to remain calm. Underneath the exterior the pulse is rising and heart palpating. The man on the ferry gives a hand signal directing ‘come down’. Turn tyres this way, then back again, then straight ahead. I think we are about to run off the ferry before hubby finally stops. I let out a not-so-silent STOP! He finally pulls up, turns the engine off and pulls on the hand brake. We are on our way, by ourselves. We leave the others, in their Kimberly Caravan, behind. Obviously, the Ferry Drivers know ‘class’ when they see it! Coming off the other end was not as harrowing. We were back on terra-ferma and now it was my turn to video the others doing their crossing. After waiting 

Before arriving to find our camp site, (yes, I know) we detoured to the WW2 Aircraft monument and crash-site. Then onto the Seisa Airport (for a look) and over the airfield to see some more old relic plane crash sites and fuel dump.

WW2 Airplane crash

Finally, we turn into Bamaga for a few essential items before heading out to Umagico Caravan Park, finding a lovely spot with beach frontage and light breeze. The sunset was a bonus. As it was only early afternoon, we unhitched and took a short trip to Injinoo to check out boat ramps and fishing spots for the fellows. A few lures were tossed around, to no avail. The slide marks on the bank at one lonely site had “CROC” written all over them. We learned later a big croc had been shot at this site a few weeks earlier. He was being of concern to the locals and (dogs). Intelligent Croc had worked out when the school bell rang, children would run down to the water and throw their non-eaten lunches away. He had already taken a dog and now the community was at risk. The only solution – BANG!  

With no fish and no incidents with crocs, it was back to camp to enjoy happy-hour and the sunset. Tomorrow “THE TIP”!  

The road to the tip was also unexpected as we found our way through rain forest and hills, over water crossings before finally parking below a huge pile of sandstone rocks. These rocks in the form of hills formed our walking path out to the edge of the Torres Strait and the final assault on the ‘Tip’. As per our entire journey we were buffeted by wind as we clung tightly to the sign that says “you have reached the most northernmost point on the Australian continent”. It was a strange emotion I felt holding this pole. I was relieved that I had accomplished what I set out to do, but I also felt let-down somehow. Is this all it was? Why was I so driven to be here? I worked out it was the fear of missing out. When my previous trip had been so disastrous, I felt everyone else had seen something I hadn’t and I’d missed out. I’d been disappointed and dejected for months after this, until they returned with tales of their adventures. Now it was my turn and I truly believed the journey had been the important part. The destination was just the cream on top. 

We made it!

Our journey to the Tip was completed but we were to experience more culture of the top-end when we booked a trip to the three islands in Torres Strait. Friday island where a Japanese man had made his home for the past 26 years. He was also a pearl dealer, who cultivated his own pearls after buying out a lease from a previous pearl famer. His place was in the true Japanese style, with raked sand in the garden beds and many Japanese icons around the place. A very peaceful place as he had the whole island to himself (and the 5 Japanese back-packers for five months of the year, helping in his small shop and around the island). Once a week he would make the trip over to Thursday Island to do his shopping, and once a year he would go back to Japan to sell his wares and see his 92 year old mother. 

Next on the boat trip was Thursday Island. Being a Sunday most of the shops were closed, therefore after a quick taxi ride around the island and a very informative chat from Dirk (our driver), we headed for the pub. Not any old Pub, but the ‘most northernly in Australia’ pub!  

What we did see of Thursday Island was beautiful. The water a simmering turquoise and white sand made for a spectacular view from the old fort atop the hill. Pity about all the sharks, crocs and other nasties. 

Friday Island - pearl farm

Thursday Island bus shelter

The cemetery was very interesting too, as the TI people have what the call an ‘unveiling day’. After the burial, the family save their money for a granite or marble headstone, with a small history of the person engraved on it along with their name. By the time the headstone is completed and sent back to TI, the family put on a big celebration and unveil the headstone. No one is to see the headstone before the unveiling. 

There were also many Japanese headstones in one section. This was due to the influx of enforced labour of pearl divers in the early 1900’s. The graves had been in disrepair for some time and only now are being restored to their previous standard. 

The final island for the day was Horn Island. Horn Island was home to many servicemen and women of the period of WW2. There is a great museum on the island of all sorts of interesting documentation and pictures from this time, including from the Japanese perspective. Some photos quite evocative and emotionally disturbing.

The picture says it all! How sad.

By now all our bodies and minds were beginning to wain and were looking forward to our boat trip home. But not before some of the people on the trip decided they needed to stock up on a ‘slab’ or two! Their reasoning – cheaper here in TI, than in Seisa.

Although the boat trip home was a bit rough, it was very similar to the conditions experienced at times on our own Gippsland Lakes. Because the Great Barrier Reef surrounds this place, the waves are mostly choppy and not large. We arrived home safely and were now ready to start the trek southward. 

With a sense of sadness in our hearts, the car now headed south. We made good time down the PDR with all roadhouses being serviced with our money; either going up or coming back. Musgrave doubly so as we camped and ate out, up and down the track. The final assault for our Cape York adventure was to turn off at Laura toward Battle Camp Station.  The road took us 4WD past the outskirts of Lakefield NP. A few water crossings, up and down the Great Divide and we were now close to Cooktown. A minor detour out to Hopevale; a lovely community set amongst rainforest and green grassy paddock, before we arrived at our destination for the evening.  

Cooktown was very different to what I had imagined. In my mind it would be a large community. Instead it was quite small with a few hotels, small shopping strip and one IGA supermarket. It also contained much memorabilia of Capt. James Cook and his exploits in fixing the ship Endeavour. The museum, set in an old convent, was very well set-up with artefacts displayed from by-gone eras of gold mining, the township and the convent days. James Cook also received a mention, anchor and all!

A quick look to survey the countryside and ocean, from the top of the Grassy Hill, after being nearly blown away, we then scooted out to the Botanical Garden. Checking out the small shopping precinct, fellow lady traveller spent a few dollars on a pretty iridescent necklace, before we all headed to the local establishment for a not-so-quite ale. (The music on the jukebox was exceptionally load). 

Cooktown lighthouse 

After consultation with our travelling troupe (the other two), we decided to leave our Cooktown camp late afternoon, to head down the track to a little place called ‘The Lion’s Den’. The Lion’s Den is just off the main road from Lakeland to Cooktown, but it is also the start and end of the road for us to be able to attempt the infamous, ‘Bloomfield Track’. 

Many people we met gave us conflicting information on the track conditions. Was it suitable for caravans? Yes, no, maybe came the responses. Our fellow female traveller resorted to the information pack and read “it has 32 kms of gravel, corrugated and steep slopes. 4WD only, with several water crossings.” (All okay so far. We were feeling just a tiny bit smug with our other 4WD exploits).  But the thing that swung the vote was “inclines and descents of up 31% in places”. This statement became our deal breaker for taking any vans past Lion’s Den.

The trip over the Bloomfield lived up to its reputation. Yes, on the really steep parts there is concrete to help you not slip. But they forget to tell you about the right-hand corners on the 30% incline and the rough washouts when you meet another vehicle. Or maybe the overhanging trees that would wipe out your air-conditioner on the van. The risk was certainly not worth the angst. We had certainly made the right decision. 

On entry to the other side we found civilization at Cape Tribulation. (Another Capt. Cook historical place, but also a pretty beach with coconut palms). A tour down the road, we checked out Cow Bay and the Daintree Rainforest but the elusive (or imaginary) cassowary were not to be spotted. 

We had friends in the Daintree area and finding some phone coverage were able to make our way to their hideaway in the rainforest. A pleasant hour was passed in conversation with these two before showing us their ‘slice of heaven’. 3.5 hectares of rainforest with ferns plentiful and the vanilla beans (of which these two are famous for). Unfortunately, the beans had finished for the season with only the empty vines hanging at present. 

It was now 3:30pm and we needed to get back on the track if we were to make home before dark. The drive back was uneventful. We even made better time back than coming over. Funny that!

Friends in the Rainforest 

One last diversion on the track was just before Wugal Wugal (another well-kept Aboriginal community), where we went into see the Bloomfield Falls; a towering mountain of freshwater flowing over granite rocks.  A crocodile was sunny himself on the other side of some rocks. So even though the water looked inviting, I thought I might decline the invitation.

We finally made it back into camp by 6:00pm, just before dark. The only thing left to do now was… have a drink and meal at the legendary Lion’s Den. One very iconic Australian hotel. And being a Saturday night there was music as well. All is good with the world from this vantage point.

Well we have finished our exploits in the FNQ. We caught up with our son in Cairns and have made it into Townsville to spend some time with my brother before the final assault on heading home. We may stop and say hello to a few other friends up this way, but more than likely the hubby will want to push for the home town lights. 

This will be the last chapter in the blog for this time. Until next time, I will sign off wishing you all safe travels and happy memories.    

                              

Part 7

Weipa. What an amazing place! Rio-Tinto owned and managed, with green grass and picture-perfect sunsets over blue gulf water, it certainly doesn’t get much better. 

Being on the road for quite a few days, it was time to restock everything – food, fuel and restore some clothes with washing. The first day was taken up with - 1. Boys – fishing. 2. Girls, domestic stuff, plus a walk and internet bits and pieces (before the system went down). 

Day two started early with a bus tour around the town and mines. A three-and- half hours trip went by very quickly as our driver, Hardus (think either South African or Dutch), informed and entertained us. So much information, it is hard to retain much of it. Suffice to say it was extremely well worth the CASH we had to pay.
The mineral mined here is Bauxite which is transported by boat overseas and other parts of Australia. The channel the boats must come through is shaped like a tennis racquet. They cannot turn the boats, therefore have to come in one way, load and go out another way.  The channel is only 13 metres deep on high tide mark. It was made this particular height, with dredge, due to Torres Strait being 13 metres at its lowest point. The boats must navigate this Strait as well on their trips out of here. The boat size is classified ‘Post Panama’ due to the size of boats which can navigate the Panama Canal.

The Bauxite is the world’s largest supply and according to our guide, they have only touched 9% of the resource so far. It is estimated it would take another 500 years to remove all the mineral on current predictions. 

Bauxite is the mineral to produce Aluminium. It is very simple to mine with no pits or explosives required. You simply run your loader over the top to remove the product. This in turn is loaded into either truck or train, and transported to the hopper to be unloaded onto a conveyer belt. The conveyer belt continues on its way until the processing plant. Only high-pressure water is required for processing, along with a few good shaking machines and the end product is then ready for export. No chemicals required for bauxite, just good old water. 

The main workers in the driving department are female, due to their driving skills. Not as harsh on machinery (taking things quieter, not rush and tear) and also more aware of machines needing maintenance before actually breaking down. Nothing like a bit of Girl-Power!   

There are no FIFO workers here. All mine workers have to be live in the township. This was part of the contract between all parties (Mining company and indigenous landowners). The indigenous felt if the town was to be supported, the mine had to be the major supplier of everything. Roads, shopping precinct, schools, industry and so on. The community is home to around 3000 people; therefore, it is a very socially active town. Marathons, Bull Riding, Hunting and Fishing Competition are the major events the town is known for. 

The last crocodile attack happened in 2011, when one fellow fishing in a small stream (just below the caravan park), was grabbed by a 4-metre croc. Some lads at the local hotel heard his cries for help and came to rescue him. The fellow was holding onto the mangroves near the bank trying to prevent his demise. This croc was ‘relocated’. (Shot and buried at the local dump). 

Well it’s almost drinks time and as I can’t post the blog today will have to wait for the internet to be up and running again. Until next time…

We just got back online and as we are out of here tomorrow will upload this latest couple of editions. 

Part 6

Part 6

“I think we might make a trip out to Portland Roads” I say, standing on the intersection that can lead either to the ‘Tip’, back to Cairns or out to Portland Roads and Lockhart River. “It sounds an interesting place, with quite a bit of WW2 history. Might we worth a look”. We are already very familiar to gravel, dust and corrugations therefore nothing we haven’t seen before!

After picking-up with our new travelling companions, we did our last stock-up of good, fuel and water before ascending North for our intrepid journey to reach the top of Australia. Early days into the trip had been very uneventful. The road was bitumen and not as we had expected; more climbing the Great Divide than anticipated.

Following the mountains for most of the way, with the occasional flat savannah to break the scenery. We free camped the first night out; in a gravel pit (as you do), beside the road. An hour into our quite little hideaway and we see two more vans making their way towards us. “There goes our peace and serenity” one fellow traveller commented.  Although it was not what we really wanted, the company was good, with chat among the visitors and ourselves robust. 

The following night we stayed at Musgrave, a small outpost from a bygone era of the overland telegraph (Qld).  This old station has been turned into a place of respite for weary and dusty travellers. A small café/restaurant made a pleasant reprieve from the cooking. The hot showers were wonderful taking the layers of red dirt from under the fingernails, skin and the hair. Following our night of ‘luxury’ we were on our way again. 

I’ll admit here, so far into this journey, beside the scenery I was disappointed in our trek to the top. Beside the mountains and roller-coaster roads, it was…well boring to a certain degree. The road was bitumen a lot of the way, with patches of gravel to make sure you were awake, but nothing out of the ordinary. 

When other travellers from our pervious attempt went to the ‘top’, some of them felt cheated in some way. They felt for various reasons, they had rushed the trip, missing side-trips along the way. Their recommendation to us was “make sure you do it right. See everything you can”. I was beginning to think they were right; we needed a diversion hence the intersection to Portland Roads.

As we trundled down the roads, we really had no concept of what we were to encounter. The first part of the track lent itself to some burn-off of vegetation, making the termite hills standout, like ‘boot-hill’, in this black environment. There are various types of anthills; the ‘standard’ red dirt, to the exotic type of the magnetic. These ants build their empires of dirt in a north/south direction. This type of hill is used in swampy areas to alleviate heat stress in the nest. In the morning the ants migrate to the west, evenings to the east, for the cooler area. I guess you could say environmentally aware ants!

Once through the burn off area we encountered our first water crossing on the road. A mild stream a few metres wide, with good rock bottom. After many dips and twists we finally arrived at the Wenlock River.

After an easy entry we crossed the river following the concrete causeway underneath. The exit required a bit more navigation, as the slippery conditions from the water we carry through, and a couple of bumps made the Totoya and BT rock and roll. 

Our female traveller is not an adventure junkie in any sense of the word, so her initiation to true 4WD on this trip was just activated. 

After crossing the Wenlock, we decided to traverse a few kilometres to a camp site run by the local indigenous people. A campsite with plenty of space, a toilet and ‘donkey’ shower greeted us.  On arriving we were welcomed by a lovely lady who, along with a party of at least 6 others had been here for the past 3 weeks. She explained the ‘donkey’. The shower is hot, as long as the water is heated. To heat the water, create a fire in the stove. When you finish your shower, make sure you throw another piece of wood on the fire as you leave.

After these short instructions she then proceeded to tell us why they had been here three weeks. The party is an archaeological team, with all members doing their PhD. Even the Professor was present, assessing their skills along the way. They apparently did find some artefacts of significance here, which the Elder of the people was very excited about. Much of the history of his place had been either destroyed or hidden with overgrowth of vegetation, over the past 150 years. 

We did speak to her about the road into Portland Roads and Chilli Beach (Iron Range NP). She informed us the road was reasonably good, with occasional water crossings, and patches of bitumen. The Café at Portland Roads had a good reputation, but was closed on her venture yesterday! Lockhart River was quite a shock to her, but was the only place you could fill for fuel and supplies. 

Next morning, we were up bright and early ready for our new escapade. But not before my dear hubby had decorated the next-door caravan with streamers and balloons. It was female traveller’s birthday. Happy birthday V! Pancakes were on the breakfast menu today to add to the celebratory mood. 

After the camp lady had told us it would only take around 90 minutes to get into Portland Roads, we didn’t understand how she could be so wrong in her timing. It turned out to be a 4-hour one-way trip after many water crossings, Pascoe River included. The last of the journey included so many potholes, trying to dodge them was almost a waste of time. There were places where 4WD was absolutely necessary with some of the entries or exit to the crossings horrendous. White-knuckle fever present around most corners or dips. We travelled slowly until the bitumen section where a bit more speed was warranted. No damage to either van or car was our aim. We still needed to return! And this was a very remote part of the Cape, let alone Australia. 

Travelling through the last of the rainforest we came upon Portland Roads. What an oasis in this forbidden part of the country!  Manicured laws, swaying palm trees and newly varnished park seating. The surrounding mountains of Portland Roads added to its mystic. The ocean lay in front of us with opening arms. Alas, no swimming due to crocodiles! The old ruin of the port jetty could only be made out in the distance. A few broken wooden piles and iron nails all that remain. Once a thriving military base, Portland Roads was home to many air force and army personnel, being the main port for the FNQ detachments. Japanese subs patrolled the inner reef, destroying many of our allied ships in this area. Who knew?

The café was a quaint place set halfway up the mountain with a view over the cove and water. We spoke to the lady in charge and booked in for the evening meal. Pre-booking Male and Female traveller had the seafood platter. I, the garlic prawns with fettucine, hubby – fish and chips.  A wonderful way to celebrate V’s birthday. One I’m sure she will remember for a very long time.

Remote location, starry night, good company (I hope) and a romantic husband to boot. What more could a girl ask for? That night though we did have to free camp. Shhh! Don’t tell anyone. You are supposed to book for the NP, but seriously how would you know what the place was like unless you check it out first! Next morning, we went back to the entry to Portland Road to take a picture of the van, proving we did actually go there. After talking with one of the Shire Council workers he said “we were the first caravans we had seen in 2 years to make it in”! 

On waking the next morning, we wound our way into Chilli Beach. White quartz sand, coconut palm trees and a stiff sou-easterly wind blowing, greeted us on this beach. Two intrepid sailors in wind-assisted kayaks were launching off the beach, apparently heading to the ‘tip’. Their journey commenced at Townsville, we were told and were completing this in favour of ‘Mates Hero’s’ Charity. This Charity was set up to highlight the plight of return service people and their ongoing mental health issues.

After a quick look around, it was back into vehicles and onto Lockhart River where we could refuel as we were now almost empty. On the way into Lockhart River we passed the Gordon Airbase, once used by American Bombers. It remains an airfield to this day and I’m sure the remote community is thankful for its presence. While we were wandering around looking at the military images placed there in recognition of past service, a RFDS plane was about to take off. Who with?  Don’t know details but I hope they were ok and I’m glad it wasn’t me! 

Into Lockhart River finally and filled with one tank of fuel. All prior paid via the EFTPOS machine before the pump would turn on.  (As I write at present the whole of the Cape York Peninsula is off-line. We have no phone reception; no EFTPOS and all monetary transactions are in CASH! So much for the cashless society they predict in the future).

While waiting to refuel, some of the local indigenous children were running around pushing a Toyota Ute through the service-station. One child about 12-13years old was in the driver’s seat, while the rest of the children pushed the car down the hill to roll-start it. Yes, it did go and yes, the young person did drive it around town. So much for Community living.

Eventually after our refuelling we then headed out of town (after getting directions from a local) toward the coast – Quintile Beach.

Another pretty part of the world, with many fishing dinghy’s spread along the beach in various states of repair.  A quick look around, but time was fast running out. But not before finding what we thought was the true Lockhart River. (On looking at maps after the event, we are still not sure if it was, or just another tributary).

It was now time to return to our campsite from the previous day – back to where the archaeologists had been.  Return trip only took 3 hours. Obviously, we felt more confident in our drive this time. 

Returning to camp, we parked in the same place as previous. We also had to share or camp area with a marauding group of Oztrekers. A 4WD group had set up camp over the other side from us, using all the hot water… in fact all the water, until the Ranger came along and refilled the tanks from the Wenlock River. 

The date was now the 20^thJuly. A significant date in our history as it turns out. The day man landed on the moon. To celebrate this 50^thanniversary hubby brought out the projector, computer, screen and sound system to give a private screening of ‘The Dish’. To be honest re-watching this movie, on this auspicious day gave me goose-bumps. And right-on cue, as Neil Armstrong said ‘one step for mankind’ the (almost) full moon came up behind the vans! Perfect timing or what?

What a wonderful day to end a fun filled couple of days. Tomorrow we head for Wiepa.