
Join me in my trip around Australia. Enjoy the spectacular scenery, birdlife, flora and fauna our country has to offer.
Thursday, 6 June 2024
Alice Springs to Kings Canyon via Mereenie Loop

Sunday, 2 June 2024
Oodnadatta Track to Alice Springs
Thursday, 23 May 2024
2024 Mum's Journal from 1992
Hello from, sort-of sunny, Carrieton SA.
It has been quite a while since my last blog and I decided to have another crack at letting you know where and why we are travelling again this year.
After 2 years of Covid 19 restricting our travels, then building our house last year, it is now time to complete the journey we set out to do about 3 years ago... to follow my Mum's Journal written over 30 years ago, onto the Central Desert Road incorporating NT and WA states.
We set out, just on a week ago, with 2 other couples with Wedderburn our first night out with a slight frosty morning greeting us the first morning. Diesel heaters received their first work out, with many more to come.
Rufus River monument to aboriginal massacre in 1941 |
Lake Victoria NSW where Rufus River exits |
After our stock of veggies and fruit in Renmark we headed to Morgan to show our new travellers the old Morgue on the banks of the river Murray. Unfortunately the old 'body' in the morgue has been removed and not much was to be found, except leaves and bird droppings.
Campfire at Rufus River |
Tyre control on Rufus River road |
Mind you the beautiful scenery at Burra Gorge, a.k.a. Worlds End, made up for any discrepancies in our navigation.
Sign says it all! |
The girls in sunshine in Burra |
Burra Gorge camp site |
Capitol Theatre - Peterborough, now a cafe |
Relaxing at Carrieton |
Burra was next on our list to stopover and check all the beautiful buildings and history in this wondrous place of mining heritage. Also the obligatory Pie - for some, and Coffee - for others, stop. One of our ladies is rating the coffee as we go along. Unfortunately, she is finding the standard declining, so I'm not sure where we go for improvement from here.
A short detour through Terowie brought some smiles to our faces at the abstract, but creative art works found in a paddock, just within the town limits.
From here to Peterborough where ablutions and more eating was had. Finally we landed in Carrieton to catch up with some mates from other times in our lives and also a catch up on the domestic chores, reading and whatever else needed doing. The highlight so for on our trip was a personal music show by Peter, who sang some fabulous oldies we were all bopping along with. Some of our members even taking to the gravel for a quick two-step.
Peter performing for us exclusively. |
Till next time, I hope you enjoy travelling along with us.
Friday, 23 July 2021
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Shipwreck at Yarrabah |
A trip out to east Trinity Beach and Yarrabah was a highlight. Yarrabah is an aboriginal community at the end of the road south-east of Cairns. The scenery was spectacular as we climbed the mountain range before plummeting again to the beach below. A few shipwrecks from days gone-by harboured in the foreshore. People from this community, although isolated from the general population, didn’t appeared perturbed by a couple of foreigners driving around. After seeing as much of this neck of the woods as we could, back to the mountain range and homeward bound. I’m sure if you travelled this road often your brakes wouldn’t last very long!
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Jade Tree - Botanic Garden, Cairns |
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The 'secret' waterfall |
Our ten days were up and everyone was returning to their normal routine; son to work, partner to work and little tacker, to school. It was also our turn to leave and continue the journey down the track. We had now made contact with the other party and were soon to join them. Leaving Cairns, I had one more item to complete before leaving the FNQ – catch up with my brother. As he lives in Townsville and they were in a Covid area, I asked if he would like to come and meet us in Innisfail? It is quite a drive for him and luckily, he was on a day off from work. After meeting for lunch and a brief, but wonderful catchup it was onward up the Great Dividing Range and heading south. We made our way down the Kennedy Highway and the beautiful scenic Hann Highway, before arriving in Hughenden. One fortuitous time as we were driving the Hann Highway, we came upon a Telstra outpost. “Stop, stop here” I say to my husband. “We have full reception” (out in the middle of absolutely nowhere!) I am due to take a phone call from The Alfred Haematology Department at 1:40pm on this day. We are not going to make it another one hundred kilometres into a major town before this, so this is our only opportunity. We had lunch and a drink, before the phone call came. All good! And I thank my Guardian Angel for looking out for me one more time! Finally, we arrive in Hughenden where a quick fuel up and check the museum are a must. More dinosaurs!
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Dinosaur - Hughenden |
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Old Ruins on Birdsville Track |
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Big Red. Start of Simpons Desert. |
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Even Found a Redback in the dust |
Monday, 5 July 2021
Part 5
The World of Many Colours
The endless colours in our natural world never cease to amaze me.
From the ochre colours in the mesas; the different varieties of birds, especially the parrots; the trees and the various barks. I even spotted a ‘Painted Gum’ at the Botanical Gardens in Cairns. It may not be a native but it would have to be the most colourful eucalypt I have ever seen.
The sky is forever changing with clouds providing an interesting aspect on an hourly basis; the brilliant sunsets with all the colour variations: scarlet, orange, yellow, mauve. And the hue of the water, especially when we visited Boodjamulla NP (Lawn Hill) – aquamarine.
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Painted Gum |
When I signed off last time, our mission was to see the above NP. It took a few hours to arrive at the park, travelling on gravel much of the way from our camp ground. We found many, many others doing the same as us, or coming from the park. Encountering horses on the way provided an interesting sideline.
Once at the park, finding a car park was not an easy task. The Ranger Station was unavailable due to the Covid issues. So, to navigate the place we picked up a self-guide and followed the signposts. Unfortunately, since the heavy rain last wet season, some of the trails had been damaged, with the bridge to the Botanical Area destroyed.
We made our way along the river, lined with palms, ferns and paperbark trees, before heading into the stony country. Massive walls of sedimentary stone to the west of us creating a cover from prevailing winds. After some climbing and rambling around rocks, we came to a vantage point overlooking the river below. Kayakers were making their approach to the next way-stop, before having to retrieve their kayak, taking it to the next level. I must admit, I was envious of them. The aquamarine of the water, the prehistoric cycads and the iron covered wall of the cavern would have been sensory overload.
Hubby made his way down to the bottom while I remained on the top. The steep climb down and up, not to my liking: me or my lungs!
I did climb to the lookout before it was time to head back for lunch. We met some lovely ladies from Portland who we had spoken to earlier. They were trying to get back to the carpark. To help them in their dilemma we suggested they turn around and take the other track. Heading another seven kilometres into the gorge was not on their agenda!
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Boodjamulla NP |
After six kilometres of many ascents and declines we finally returned to whence we started.
As I said previously, this place was always on my bucket list. As much as it is a stunning place, the lack of access to certain parts was a disappointment. You would require a kayak, if you wish to see the best of it and spend a few days here. Would I do it again? Probably not, as there are too many other wonderous places to see first.
From Gregory Downs we headed further north to Burketown on a bitumen road. This sleepy little hollow was very clean, neat and a paradise for fishing. That’s if you were brave enough to put your boat in. We were now in serious crocodile and shark country.
Buying lunch at the little store there, we then travelled to the artesian bore on the outskirts of town.
This bore was established at the beginning of European settlement. The water was not suitable for man or domestic beast, but remained a running source of fluid for the native birds and animals.
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Artesian Bore - Burketown |
The colour of the mound that has arisen from the years of function, indicates the minerals present in the water. The flow certainly provided a powerful wetland for Shelducks, kangaroos and pelicans. (This is what we could see anyway).
The sealed road continued out of Burketown until we reached Leichhardt Falls on the Leichhardt River, before once again turning to gravel.
Leichhardt Falls was our camp for the next two nights. A massive river in the wet season no doubt, but a dry fall and only billabongs now housing any water. This place was a haven for birds: The chattering Apostle Birds, wandering Kites and screeching Sulphur Crested Cockatoos. We even had a visit from a little rock wallaby.
It was also a place of freshwater crocodiles and sharks! The water looked peaceful, but on closer inspection the barramundi found no love in this pond, with the shark devouring him as we watched on. The Cane Toad found no love here either, drowning in one of the many holes filled with water on the ledge.
After our short stay it was on to Normanton. Once again, the washing was piling up, with supplies and fuel getting low.
We were in Normanton a few years back, so our intention was to move on without doing too many tourist attractions. Except we found the Mutton-Hole Wetlands! A spectacular body of water housing hundreds of birds. Black and white Magpie Geese the major species. Brolgas, Apostle birds, Pelicans and Egrets the other complimentary genus.
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Liechhardt River - downstream |
We also discovered the Burke and Will final camp before reaching the coast. There is very little to see these days, besides the information boards about their ill-fated journey. A few scar trees further towards their billabong, and many plaques indicating where more scar trees from other fellow explorers once stood. The ravages of time continue. Fire and floods don’t help, with nature taking back our European history. It is indicated that by 2061 all trace of the camp and trees will be eliminated.
We ate our first meal away from camp at the notorious Purple Pub, Normanton. Pizzas all round was the order of the day! I must admit it was nice not to have to cook in such a hot climate - 30C.
The next morning on the road we came across the Cairns to Karamba Bike Riders. A group for cyclists each year ride this route for charity. One of the fellows this year was from our bike riding group, which crossed Australia with us, in 2016.
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Cairns to Karaumba bike riders |
We stopped on the side of the road and spoke with a group already stationary, having their sustenance and drinks. After enquiring about our friend, we were told “he’s in the fast group. They are racing the Gulflander train from Croydon to Normanton”.
Within a few minutes of talking with this group, the racing faction hurtle past our station. I had enough time to snap a photo, but that’s all.
I have heard this group broke the record by seventeen minutes before racing the train into Normanton. Well done too all! Average speed 38.5kms.
We have now followed the Savannah Way across Queensland from Burketown, through the gold towns of Croydon and Georgetown finally arriving at Cairns, where we have caught up with our son and his family.
One stop we made in Georgetown was to the Mineral Museum. An extraordinary exhibition of gems, minerals found locally and around the world.
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Agate in museum at Georgetown |
Once again, the colours of the natural world are astonishing.
Thursday, 24 June 2021
Part 4
The Eagle Has Landed
The clouds gathered and the rain fell. At least last night it did, putting our plans for the day on hold. Here we sit at Gregory Downs, a small settlement in the Gulf Country of Queensland.
I chose the above title for two reasons:
Boodjmulla NP (Lawn Hill) has been on my bucket list for many years after watching a documentary on the natural wonders of the area. The last time I traversed this area was two years ago when travelling to Cape York.
At the time my health was dealing me a nasty hand. Between blood tests at Mt Isa and doctors calling me from Bairnsdale, I was thwarted in going to this remote slice of Australia.
Well, I still have the health issues, but they appear under control for now. Plus, I have the blessing from my doctor to ‘go and enjoy myself while I can’.
So, the eagle (being us) has landed in this area, ready to tick off another of my list. The rain last night dampened more than our enthusiasm; also, the track. Watching the campers and cars come into the park this morning, things look exceedingly dirty. We’re not in a hurry and it gives us a chance to catch up on this blog, along with allowing the gravel roads to dry up.
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On the road to Gregory Down |
The second reason: the amount of dead Wedge-Tailed Eagles lying beside the road between Winton and Mt Isa is one of regret. Twenty eagles we observed, deceased beside the roadside. This is a stretch of road of only six hundred kilometres. Such a tragedy these resplendent birds of prey, become prey themselves to us! Trucks, cars and other vehicular devices.
Being my favourite bird of any species (although I do have a special place for my Willy Wagtail), I was shocked and disgusted in the way these birds lay lifeless on the roads.
Yes, we have seen a few live birds, and we do slow down to accommodate their slow take-off. I just wish a few others did the same.
Okay, enough of my lecture, on with our story…
Leaving Winton, we had one more stop in the hunt for dinosaurs. The Age of Dinosaurs was to complete the three big attractions for these prehistoric monsters.
Again, the site which was chosen for this display was spectacular. Set on top of a mesa (or jump up), the road wound its way around the mountain side with scenic views taking advantage of every corner. On top, the panorama one-hundred and eighty degree of the surrounding Winton area.
I had tried to book online for this tour and although I had paid my money, the wrong date was locked in. Me or technology – whose to say?
Anyway, we pleaded our case to the wonderful attendants at reception and were able to tag-a-long with the group at 12:45pm. The only issue was, we had to take our own vehicle down to the pavilion and park in the centre of the turnaround for the shuttle bus. From there we were to show the bus driver our tickets and follow the group.
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Age of Dinosaurs - Winton |
Well, we made our way down the road with about five minutes before time. Wandering our way, we passed a shuttle bus returning. Thinking nothing of this we continued on our way, until a very officious park attendant strode out to us. “What are you doing here? I had a phone call from the bus, saying someone was coming down the road. No-one is supposed to come down here”.
After explaining we had tickets and were told to be here at 12:45pm by the lady at reception, he settled down and told us to park where we were. It seems, we were supposed to meet the shuttle at 12:45pm and follow them down. Communication – got to love it!
This section of the park was recently opened and houses more dinosaur prints. The story of how they came to be here was exceptional. Three volunteer ladies transported them from the original site at Snake Creek. With strategic placing of the individual clay-based prints it all came together.
These prints were of larger dinosaurs and were of a casual nature, unlike the ones of the stampede. In this section were also crocodile prints and lung-fish. All housed for prosperity under the roof of an airconditioned building for generations to ogle over. Just like us!
Outside the building there is a new dark observatory being built, opening in September this year they hope. This will also have a telescope and is world renowned as a ‘dark area’ (meaning: no artificial light affecting the night sky).
The Canyon was next, with the displays attached to the boulders and rocks in various shapes and forms. Making the best of the environment, each one had a stencil to trace and an explanation of each prehistoric creature.
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Displays in the canyon |
After the obligatory photos and reading about each display it was back to the car and continue our journey.
Coming back through Winton (it was now 2:30pm) hubby thought he could ‘handle’ a pie. Alas, nothing and I mean nothing in Winton was open, beside the pub, whose meals were off until tea time. Oh well, onwards to toward Boulia. Pies will have to wait another day. (He is still waiting!)
The Kennedy Development road would have to be one of the most picturesque roads in this country. Striking mesas rise from the red dirt. The colours of these mountains outstanding. All the colours of ochre; orange, red, grey, cream, black. You could say the ‘rainbow serpent’ painted this land in magical times.
After you drive through these mesas, the country becomes flat and contrasting landscape to where we came. Then another set of mesas, then flat channel country all the way into Boulia.
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Kennedy Development Road - Mesas |
But before Boulia, I was on another mission. A mission to find ‘moon rocks’!
I first saw these at the museum in Boulia two years ago. The lady at the museum said I either pay ten dollars for one, or seek my one on the K.D.R. as they were constructing a road and many were being upturned in the excavations.
I didn’t pay the ten dollars, but vowed to come back one day and look for these fascinating sedimentary rocks. Besides the shape of the rock, when opened there is a fossil of various types: wood, shell, animal in the middle.
About seventy kilometres from Boulia, I asked Paul to stop the car as I thought I recognised the shape of the rock. Once again, the fossicking skills came into play and yes, we found moon rocks. Big ones, small ones and ones that were just right! Three intact (mostly) rocks are being transported in the back of the car to Cairns, where we endeavour to open them and see what treasure is inside. Other than these I took some photos of the more interesting ones. (They were also too big).
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Half a Moon rock. Spot the fossils. |
Now another prize found, it was onto Mt Isa for the last-minute supplies before heading north.
Boodjamulla tomorrow, even though it is quite cool here today and the sky overcast.
Last thing to record: we went to the hotel last night for a few light refreshments. And looking at the table across from us, spot two friends from Inverloch who made the bike trip across Australia five years ago with us. It really is a small world.
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Camping and Sunset on the road to Mt Isa |