Kings Canyon and the Central Desert Road (otherwise known as Outback Way)

What a big, glorious country we have in Australia. The colours are amazing and even better, ever changing- depending on the type of day. Rock formations always provide a wonderous array of structures and colours. The clouds vary from where you are on the road. Pink to the left of us, silver to the right. Change is neverending. Now, to the journey.  

We have covered about 6,000kms since leaving home and found both good and not such good roads. 

After leaving Kings Canyon, we headed toward Uluru. Two parties stopped at Curtain Springs for 2 days and sent the others into Yalara as they wanted to see the 'rock', not having the opportunity beforehand. Once again the atmosphere surrounding Uluru, with its spiritual significance, didn't disappoint our newbies with their first look. Sometimes these great places for tourism tend to get overrated but not this place. It lives up to its reputation along with the lesser focused on, Kata Tjuta, equally spectacular in its own right. 

Two day on we caught up with each party again outside the fuel station ready to head into the unknown. All fuel and water tanks now full, we were westward bound. Our permits came in handy, as when we showed them at the park station, they allowed us full access without any payment. It wasn't long before Uluru was in the rear view mirror and the CDR was commenced.

Passing Kata Tjuta we stopped for the first photo shots, then back on the bitumen. This continued for quite a few kilometres before running in the corrugations, gravel and dust. All living up to their reputation. Tires down to the travel rates on dirt/rocky roads. We had been warned furiously back in the Alice, that conditions might be a bit wet and rough, so management was essential. 

Back up and running again and before long we found some feral camels close to the road. Not greatly perturbed by us, they sauntered into the scrub, making it a difficult for all the travellers to get a photo. 

The first day on the road found us just past the NT/WA border. Past Docker River (actually we missed the turn off, but didn't really require any supplies), so kept trundling on.  

Thanks to Wikicamps we found a great camp for the night, not that far out from the Giles Weather Station. The idea was to watch the weather balloon be launched at 8:45am, next morning. Great idea right? Yeah, we thought so too but crossing the border, our time devices were in a pickle, switching backwards and forwards between NT and WA times. I thought daylight saving was bad enough, this time warp was something else. 

Alas, the ballon was launched without us, as we arrived 10 mins late. They were on Central Time, halfway between NT and WA time. Talk about confusion.

Anyway a stop at the roadhouse for a cup of coffee and the pie, some fuel and a few other necessities like fruit and veggies (had to dispose of all those things including honey before the border) and we were back on the road. 

The scenery was once again ever changing, going through hills (can't call them mountains), then on the endless plains. Sand dunes became the main feature at times and once again a glimpse of a camel. 

Road-kill was nonexistent and no kangaroo or emu was to be seen. But dead cars were everywhere. Burnt out, upside down and stripped of anything worth a dollar. We reckon at least a couple of hundred cars were seen, with possibly more that were further into the bush.

Our next stop for fuel and the usual was Warburton Roadhouse. Another clean and tidy place but with signs everywhere - no photos allowed. All the roadhouses were run by white, Asian or Indian persons. Disappointing not to see any genuine work being done by the aboriginals. Their communities were only a few kms from the roadhouses.

I'll put my philosophy hat on here a bit. With communities so far from, what we consider civilisation, what hope do these indigenous  people have for a future? Yes, granted it's nice to get away form the hustle and bustle of everyday life, but why do the taxpayer have to subsidise this lifestyle? It's no better than the surfer who hangs out all day at Byron and on the dole. Don't tell me it's 'cultural' for them to be here. Okay I accept that, but not at the taxpayers expense. Unless it's because we don't want them to live in poverty, but wasn't that 'cultural' too?  

Sorry for the rant, but sometimes I wonder what the problem and solution are.

Back to the road. Most of the going was great, with the odd patch of wetness still hanging around since a week ago. 

We stopped off at Lassiter's Cave, where he lived for a while before finally perishing in the desert, looking for his elusive Lassiter Reef of gold. No-one has ever found it yet and with all the technology they have these days, you might think it couldn't be that hard to find. 

Another great camp for the night after finding a bit of bitumen halfway along the way, lulling us into a false sense of security. Alas it didn't last long and after calling into the final roadhouse of Tjukayirla, were told there were patches of seal outside of mining settlements but nothing permanent until Laverton. 

Next day, we were actually supposed to be finished the road by now according to our permits (who no-one checked), we came to the full-time bitumen. Into a beautiful off-road park area to pump up tires and have a cuppa shared with thousands of flies! Thank goodness there was nice breeze which kept them somewhat at bay. The 'jump-up' we were standing on provided a very picturesque view of the surrounding countryside. 

Travelling into Laverton I felt a sense of accomplishment as this was the journey my Mum and Dad had completed 31 years beforehand. It is still a very isolated road but is becoming more into the the modern world with the roadhouses and mining industry encroaching on the isolation. 

Once again we had reached 'civilisation' where water and fuel was once again replenished. While the boys saw to these aspects, the girls went over to the Information Centre and viewed an interesting video history on the area. John Forrest was the main explorer of the area and although he never found a great deal of pastoral interest, did make a claim that the next people should be geologists, as his compass played up (indicating iron).

Well as we have now turned North I will end here, but will continue a second section on all the interesting places towards Newman.

 

Alice Springs to Kings Canyon via Mereenie Loop

Hi to all again. Just a quick update on our trip. Alice Springs was a disappointment with many shops closed and restrictions on alchol purchases. The town certainly lacked the vibrancy from past tours and felt very sad to me. Alcohol restrictions: Nothing on Monday and Tuesday. When open - from 3pm - 7pm. Getting our passes (3 of them) for the Mereenie Lopp, and Central Desert Road seemed convoluted and frustrating. We had to go to two diffrent places, which were poorly marked and of course we went at lunchtime when few people were on duty. One of our newby persons became so frustrated she decided to go home and stay in the van, not getting to see any sights in Alice on offer. Others went to the truck museum, but nobody did the Desert Park, much to my sorrow. With water tanks full, fuel tanks full, we then headed out of Alice on the Namatjira Road. It was a misty rain which met us going out of Alice, so stopping to see any of the beautiful gorges was put on hold. Travelling through some magnificent scenery, with the MacDonald Ranges on both sides had us in awe. The sun finally came out and after finding Glen Helen Gorge, not open, we headed to Red Gorge where we found a sheltered spot out of the bitterly cold wind. A small walk to the river bed and back again. Only one member continued the length of the river to find the gorge. We have seen it before, so decided it wasn't necessary to continue the full walk. Back in the cars and continuing on until the start of the Mereenie Loop, which is a road, requiring a pass (as you're going through aboriginal land) which can be both great or terrible road conditions. We have had both in the past. This time it was pretty darn good, with few corrugations and dust (althought we were leading). A bit of carnage on the road, with a roof top tent, esky, taps etc. Obviously people going too fast on solid tires. The scenery was spectacular with differing vegetation throughout the trip. Ranges beside us, then open plain, colours of the outback everywhere. We did see some horses, donkeys and cattle along this road, but no native varieties. Our camp this night was a free one on top of the Ginty's lookout. Along with many other campers it was nice, once gain, to share our days journey around a campfire. We arived in Kings Canyon at about 10am, booked in (taking forever and very expensive), finding our spot in camp for the night. Walks this afternoon for all, but hopefully the wind buttons off and it warms up slightly. Walks have been completed with one member completely 'stuffed' from the 6kms rim walk. Others did the more sedate canyon walk, of which I was one. Beautiful scenery once again in this little oasis, with views of the canyon from a compeltely different stance. Well we are now off to a well earned cooking break on our tip and dining at the local Hotel here. Cheers till next time. PS - if you spot any spelling or grammar mistakes - well done you. Never has been my strength.

Oodnadatta Track to Alice Springs

Taking off from our last entry, we have now completed the full Oodnadatta Track with a side tour to the Painted Desert. Although we have seen much of this contry beforehand our newbies to the great outdoors haven't, hence the detour. And it still is a magnificent place to visit even if the road is a little on the slow side. Taking off from Carrieton we traversed north stopping for a few basics at Hawker before continuing onto Beltana for the night. Beltana is the place we'd stayed at during one of the Covid lockdowns in SA. Once again our newbies loved the place just as we had. The good news also, is the drive in is now bitumened, leaving only the town in gravel keeping its authentic historical value. Fom Beltana it was onto Farina where the underground bakery is in full swing. Pies, coffee, bread and other specialties all ready for our mouth watering tastebuds. One of our members had a pie, sausage roll and vanilla slice! From this campsite we headed north past Maree, William Creek and onto Oodnadatta. Lunch here and yes, more pies and coffee, before heading out to the Painted Desert. We had camped at the Algebuckina railway bridge the night before. What a feat old engineering from 1892. It was also a great place to fix tires which had been punctured somewhere on the road. Paul's of course. The flies were very helpful in making us welcome. The Painted Desert claimed another casualty - one radio antennae, (not ours) making our communications between vehicles a bit more dicfficult. The rain the night before had made the dust subdued, which was a pleaseant change from all the red dust hanging in the air previoiusly. The Painted Desert under cloud cover was once again different from the previous times we had seen it. Onto Arkaringa homestead for our night camp where the sunset was amazing. A great campire and night, once again with Veronica's pumpkin soup being a hit. Billsy did the damper, what more do you want? Next morning the sun was shining and off to view up close, the painted desert walk. Not the walk I remember from years back, but pretty sensational all the same. On the road again and once again into Oodnadatta. Yep, you guessed it more pies and coffee! We continued up ghe road where the grader was making the road very smooth. Another night on the road and finally the Oodnadatta Track was complete. On the 'black stuff' again and all the tires pumped and cruising along at 100 KMs. Wow! Now in Alice Springs to catch up on all the domestic chores, tires, etc. Sightseeing will no doubt be had too. Finke Desert Races this coming weekend, so caravan park full of bikes and teams. The main thing we have noticed this trip is there is very little wildlife to be found. No road kill either. Strange!

2024 Mum's Journal from 1992

Hello from, sort-of sunny, Carrieton SA.

It has been quite a while since my last blog and I decided to have another crack at letting you know where and why we are travelling again this year. 

After 2 years of Covid 19 restricting our travels, then building our house last year, it is now time to complete the journey we set out to do about 3 years ago... to follow my Mum's Journal written over 30 years ago, onto the Central Desert Road incorporating NT and WA states. 

We set out, just on a week ago, with 2 other couples with Wedderburn our first night out with a slight frosty morning greeting us the first morning. Diesel heaters received their first work out, with many more to come. 

Rufus River monument to aboriginal massacre in 1941

From our first day it was onto Merbien Common, a place we have stayed at many times beforehand, right on the Murray River. We also caught up with another couple, we have known for years and have just rekindled our friendship. They are on their way to Newman WA to catch up with their son who works there. We suggested they tag a long with us for as far as they want, but have warned them we usually take the roads less travelled. 

They have continued to here, after doing their first bit of gravel road from Rufus River NSW into Renmark. We have now initiated them into the tyre control aspects of travelling with vans and cars on not so good gravel/stony roads. All came through unscarred! They seem happy enough to continue.

Lake Victoria NSW where Rufus River exits

 After our stock of veggies and fruit in Renmark we headed to Morgan to show our new travellers the old Morgue on the banks of the river Murray. Unfortunately the old 'body' in the morgue has been removed and not much was to be found, except leaves and bird droppings. 

Campfire at Rufus River

After travelling to where we thought we would end our days trekking at Mount Mary Hotel, our navigator became disorientated and instead we ended at Worlds End. 

Tyre control on Rufus River road

Mind you the beautiful scenery at Burra Gorge, a.k.a. Worlds End, made up for any discrepancies in our navigation. 

Sign says it all!

The girls in sunshine in Burra

Burra Gorge camp site

Capitol Theatre - Peterborough, now a cafe

Relaxing at Carrieton

Burra was next on our list to stopover and check all the beautiful buildings and history in this wondrous place of mining heritage. Also the obligatory Pie - for some, and Coffee - for others, stop. One of our ladies is rating the coffee as we go along. Unfortunately, she is finding the standard declining, so I'm not sure where we go for improvement from here. 

A short detour through Terowie brought some smiles to our faces at the abstract, but creative art works found in a paddock, just within the town limits. 

From here to Peterborough where ablutions and more eating was had. Finally we landed in Carrieton to catch up with some mates from other times in our lives and also a catch up on the domestic chores, reading and whatever else needed doing. The highlight so for on our trip was a personal music show by Peter, who sang some fabulous oldies we were all bopping along with. Some of our members even taking to the gravel for a quick two-step. 

Peter performing for us exclusively. 

Till next time, I hope you enjoy travelling along with us.