Part 4

Part 4

Well, where do I start? What a whirlwind week we have had. Now nestled in the caravan park in Cairns, we have travelled from one end of Qld to the other.

But let me go back a bit to Mt Isa. (My that seems and eternity ago). 

We toured Mt Isa in a small way. Out to have a look at Lake Moondarra; a fresh water lake dammed on the Leichardt River, supplying Mt Isa with its water supply. Very pretty in amongst the rich hills, surrounding the township.

Lake Moondarra - Mt Isa

A bit of a shop to stock up with things and a night out. Wow! What a place our fellow travellers found for us. The Irish Club, complete with tram restaurant, where a pleasant evening was undertaken. I must admit it felt rather strange sitting up in this tram, within the building, eating a meal.

Our tram - Irish Club - Mt Isa

But a few reds and good companionship and we could have been anywhere.

The following day it was time to pack-up and almost say farewell to our comrades for the past two weeks. The road from Mt Isa to Cloncurry is one of the prettiest roads I have ridden over. Rolling rocky hills, with olive green trees lining the gullies; there was always something new around the next corner.   

I said almost, as we did meet up with them one more time in Cloncurry for the, once again, coffee and cake! By this time, they had met up with other friends who were travelling in their direction. We on the otherhand hand now headed north. Saying goodbye in Cloncurry was bittersweet, as we experienced many good times on and off the tracks. But we knew they were in good hands travelling south with their other friends, so bid farewell. Good luck and safe travels C&D, we’ll miss you.

Heading north we made our way up the Savanah Way to the Burke & Wills Roadhouse, Normanton and Karumba. Unfortunately, we only made Normanton this far north. Reports were coming out of Karumba about infections in the water coming from the river, due to dead animals being swept out to sea. These were the dead stock and wildlife drowned from Cyclone Trevor and the major floods that hit Townsville earlier in the year. We saw the best of this major flooding event at Birdsville, but this was the ugly part. I wasn’t enthralled about seeing this at all. We also had reports that few fish were being caught with one fisherman saying it was the worst he had experienced. This was the same fisherman who was losing his toenails and fingernails due to the water quality. After hearing all these horror stories, I thought it prudent to skip Karumba. Maybe next time.

Staying at Normanton overnight we then caught up with my brother, his wife and another couple travelling with them. We have travelled with them to Cairns sharing many a funny story and adventures, especially around Mt Garnet. 

Normanton was a quiet place with its Big Crocodile being the most photographed icon in town.

Krys the Crocodile - Normanton.

The history of Normanton is quite unique. William Norman commanded a ship to try and find Burke and Wills on their trip from south to the north. He didn’t find them, but the river he followed was named in his honour.  (Burke and Wills last camp is located 40kms south west of Normanton. So close, yet so far!). The town which takes his name, became the administrative centre for the Shire of Carpentaria. It was a major port for distribution in Tropical NQ during the gold rush days of 1890’s. Gold was the major export from surrounding areas of Croydon and Georgetown during this time, travelling to Normanton via the Gulflander Train. Nowadays cattle play a major role in the exports from the area. 

The landscape was changing again. Wedgies no longer seen, but Kites still abundant. The open plains were home to great flocks of Brolgas, now the dominant bird. Unfortunately (for us), they are highly camouflaged and take flight when disturbed. Photographing them is a nightmare, never staying still more than a few seconds. 

Tropical shrubs and the occasional palms signify we are in the tropics. There is little evidence left to indicate where the water engulfed the area previously. The occasional fence with wooden debris or an unlucky cow, hooked in it, is all that remains. The grass is now beginning to dry off. Still quite a few cattle to be seen, but they look in poor condition. 

Continuing on our journey and we stopped beside the Gilbert River one night in a free camp. We set up our vans in a ‘U’ shape with fire in the middle. All was going well. Cooking was in full swing when another car and van pulled in to the site. By this stage it was dark and we see someone in silhouette of his headlights looking under his car. 

Hubby says “I bet he has hit a kangaroo. What sort of D.H. travels out here at night?” 

Next minute this male figure starts walking to our camp. “Hit a roo” says the new-comer. “Put one of my lights out. Just replaced it the other day from the same thing”. (Wouldn’t you think he might have learned his lesson?) My brother then in his ‘merry way’ says “What’s your name mate? Why don’t you pull your van over here and make a square; plenty of room”.  

“Thanks pall. My name is Frank.” 

Now to put it delicately ‘Frank’ turned out to be a rather unique individual. Strange, doesn’t do him justice. Oh yes, he is quite harmless (I think) but insisted that ‘he chased aliens for a hobby’! He also suggested that the Bible is changing its words. (I’m sure our friend Rob would have had a great time with Frank).

Next morning, it was suggested that Frank actually had a captured alien in his big box on the back of his car and was taking it to a secret base. I told you he was unique.

Finally, Frank left our presence (thankfully without any alien escaping), before heading towards Innisfail. Safe travels Frank! As for my brother inviting anyone else to join us – NO!!!

Before any more incidents we arrived in Mt Garnet at the home of one of brother’s friends. He and his wife had a fabulous area at the back of their house which catered for all three vans and cars. A nice grassy patch, with great company was home for the next few days.

As we arrived early in the day the afternoon saw us take in the local sights. Unhooking two of the vans allowed us all to be transported to a secret spot near Innot Hot Springs. Through a station gate and down some 4WD tracks, the occasional view through the trees brings us to an old tin dredge left over from 1995. This Heritage Listed Dredge, (Nettle Creek Tin Dredge) remains in position from where it worked all those years ago. 

Nettle Creek Tin Dredge remains

Now falling into disrepair, it is a reminder of a once vibrant mining industry in the past not that long ago.

Following this discovery, we then ventured back to Mt Garnet and up the large hill to the tower and lookout. Once again 4WD, was required on this rather steep and guttered track. The view at the top was amazing. Not only could you see the lake that keeps Mt Garnet in fresh water, but also on the other side, the current zinc mine in full action. Loaders, side-loading trucks and dust. As it turned out this little taste of the area’s mining history was just a starter. 

Under direction of our hosts, the following day we set out to see the natural sights of the area. As the day was inclement, our trip was curtailed slightly. We left the sights of the main crater for another day due to being drenched in the rain forest. Instead we had a lovely Devonshire Tea with jam scones and cappuccino in the old Lake Barrine tearooms. The tearooms overlooked the beautiful crater lake with its pristine water. Not a bad day in the rain!

Our group at the Tea Rooms

Curtain Fig

Next, we took in the sights of Lake Eacham (another crater lake), before heading into Yungaburra. This quaint little village is nestled on the edge of the Atherton Tablelands. The old hotel is in renovation to try and preserve its rich history of early Australian architecture. Following lunch at the hotel we traversed to Lake Tinaroo (a man-made dam) and the Curtain Fig Tree. This magnificent tree is covered by the vast roots system. 15mt of the strangler fig reaching to the ground.  

The day was getting late and our final stop for the day was at Herberton. This is the oldest town in the Tablelands with tin mining its main stay. Now I’m not really a museum type, but this one was quite different, with working small replicas on the mining operations. Press a button and everything came to life. Conveyers, tipping devices and crushers. As we were very late getting here (4:00pm), we only had limited to time to scour the place. The volunteer in-charge was wonderful, allowing us a 10-minute browse, while he counted the money for the day. An informative fellow and very proud of the town’s mining past, we thank him greatly.    

Arriving back home, we were exhausted from a packed day of sightseeing. But we were to do it all again tomorrow in different areas.

Sunday dawned and we headed out in our 4WD’s along the Silver Valley road. Twisting and turning around gravel tracks we finally came upon a gem of a place called Irvinebank. Again, a mining history with gold being the main find here. A light lunch at the hotel and more exploring. This time the boys found a wonderous place with two amazing men – Brian and Alan. 

Brian's machinery (part of).

Brian had retired four years ago at the age of 70yrs and needed a hobby. His hobby is now on show for everyone who is interested. Old compressor, cars, Blitz trucks, pumps – all in working order. Brian can’t resist getting everything to work and is a proud owner to show off his hobby to anyone who is interested. Alan is the quiet one and is the ‘designer’ behind Brian. As Alan put it “Brian makes things go. I show them off”. Apparently when they met, Brian had all his ‘stuff’ on the floor where no-one could see it. Alan built walls from mesh and displayed all the goods in categories for all to see. The place is truly inspirational for any mechanic, engineer or person just interested in old machinery and other nick-knacks. 

After much time here, we then had to trek home. But before we left hubby vowed, we will be back for a longer time, next time. I won’t mind as it is a beautiful little village, with a big heart and big past. 

With the past two days crammed with all the history, mining, natural wonders and interesting places I felt overwhelmed. My head was spinning with information and felt I had been here for more than two days. Thanks J&J for your hospitality and informative tour of your area. We will come back one day – promise!

Well, we are now in Cairns where we have split from brother and compatriots. We have caught up with our son who lives here and now find more relatives (hubby’s) are on their way. We are in a bit of a holding position at present while waiting for the next tourists to join us when we head up to Cape York. In the meantime, we will catch-up with some friends in the Daintree, while exploring this tropical north. 

Stay tuned, as the next post will be from somewhere in the Cape area.