Part 4

Part 4

Well, where do I start? What a whirlwind week we have had. Now nestled in the caravan park in Cairns, we have travelled from one end of Qld to the other.

But let me go back a bit to Mt Isa. (My that seems and eternity ago). 

We toured Mt Isa in a small way. Out to have a look at Lake Moondarra; a fresh water lake dammed on the Leichardt River, supplying Mt Isa with its water supply. Very pretty in amongst the rich hills, surrounding the township.

Lake Moondarra - Mt Isa

A bit of a shop to stock up with things and a night out. Wow! What a place our fellow travellers found for us. The Irish Club, complete with tram restaurant, where a pleasant evening was undertaken. I must admit it felt rather strange sitting up in this tram, within the building, eating a meal.

Our tram - Irish Club - Mt Isa

But a few reds and good companionship and we could have been anywhere.

The following day it was time to pack-up and almost say farewell to our comrades for the past two weeks. The road from Mt Isa to Cloncurry is one of the prettiest roads I have ridden over. Rolling rocky hills, with olive green trees lining the gullies; there was always something new around the next corner.   

I said almost, as we did meet up with them one more time in Cloncurry for the, once again, coffee and cake! By this time, they had met up with other friends who were travelling in their direction. We on the otherhand hand now headed north. Saying goodbye in Cloncurry was bittersweet, as we experienced many good times on and off the tracks. But we knew they were in good hands travelling south with their other friends, so bid farewell. Good luck and safe travels C&D, we’ll miss you.

Heading north we made our way up the Savanah Way to the Burke & Wills Roadhouse, Normanton and Karumba. Unfortunately, we only made Normanton this far north. Reports were coming out of Karumba about infections in the water coming from the river, due to dead animals being swept out to sea. These were the dead stock and wildlife drowned from Cyclone Trevor and the major floods that hit Townsville earlier in the year. We saw the best of this major flooding event at Birdsville, but this was the ugly part. I wasn’t enthralled about seeing this at all. We also had reports that few fish were being caught with one fisherman saying it was the worst he had experienced. This was the same fisherman who was losing his toenails and fingernails due to the water quality. After hearing all these horror stories, I thought it prudent to skip Karumba. Maybe next time.

Staying at Normanton overnight we then caught up with my brother, his wife and another couple travelling with them. We have travelled with them to Cairns sharing many a funny story and adventures, especially around Mt Garnet. 

Normanton was a quiet place with its Big Crocodile being the most photographed icon in town.

Krys the Crocodile - Normanton.

The history of Normanton is quite unique. William Norman commanded a ship to try and find Burke and Wills on their trip from south to the north. He didn’t find them, but the river he followed was named in his honour.  (Burke and Wills last camp is located 40kms south west of Normanton. So close, yet so far!). The town which takes his name, became the administrative centre for the Shire of Carpentaria. It was a major port for distribution in Tropical NQ during the gold rush days of 1890’s. Gold was the major export from surrounding areas of Croydon and Georgetown during this time, travelling to Normanton via the Gulflander Train. Nowadays cattle play a major role in the exports from the area. 

The landscape was changing again. Wedgies no longer seen, but Kites still abundant. The open plains were home to great flocks of Brolgas, now the dominant bird. Unfortunately (for us), they are highly camouflaged and take flight when disturbed. Photographing them is a nightmare, never staying still more than a few seconds. 

Tropical shrubs and the occasional palms signify we are in the tropics. There is little evidence left to indicate where the water engulfed the area previously. The occasional fence with wooden debris or an unlucky cow, hooked in it, is all that remains. The grass is now beginning to dry off. Still quite a few cattle to be seen, but they look in poor condition. 

Continuing on our journey and we stopped beside the Gilbert River one night in a free camp. We set up our vans in a ‘U’ shape with fire in the middle. All was going well. Cooking was in full swing when another car and van pulled in to the site. By this stage it was dark and we see someone in silhouette of his headlights looking under his car. 

Hubby says “I bet he has hit a kangaroo. What sort of D.H. travels out here at night?” 

Next minute this male figure starts walking to our camp. “Hit a roo” says the new-comer. “Put one of my lights out. Just replaced it the other day from the same thing”. (Wouldn’t you think he might have learned his lesson?) My brother then in his ‘merry way’ says “What’s your name mate? Why don’t you pull your van over here and make a square; plenty of room”.  

“Thanks pall. My name is Frank.” 

Now to put it delicately ‘Frank’ turned out to be a rather unique individual. Strange, doesn’t do him justice. Oh yes, he is quite harmless (I think) but insisted that ‘he chased aliens for a hobby’! He also suggested that the Bible is changing its words. (I’m sure our friend Rob would have had a great time with Frank).

Next morning, it was suggested that Frank actually had a captured alien in his big box on the back of his car and was taking it to a secret base. I told you he was unique.

Finally, Frank left our presence (thankfully without any alien escaping), before heading towards Innisfail. Safe travels Frank! As for my brother inviting anyone else to join us – NO!!!

Before any more incidents we arrived in Mt Garnet at the home of one of brother’s friends. He and his wife had a fabulous area at the back of their house which catered for all three vans and cars. A nice grassy patch, with great company was home for the next few days.

As we arrived early in the day the afternoon saw us take in the local sights. Unhooking two of the vans allowed us all to be transported to a secret spot near Innot Hot Springs. Through a station gate and down some 4WD tracks, the occasional view through the trees brings us to an old tin dredge left over from 1995. This Heritage Listed Dredge, (Nettle Creek Tin Dredge) remains in position from where it worked all those years ago. 

Nettle Creek Tin Dredge remains

Now falling into disrepair, it is a reminder of a once vibrant mining industry in the past not that long ago.

Following this discovery, we then ventured back to Mt Garnet and up the large hill to the tower and lookout. Once again 4WD, was required on this rather steep and guttered track. The view at the top was amazing. Not only could you see the lake that keeps Mt Garnet in fresh water, but also on the other side, the current zinc mine in full action. Loaders, side-loading trucks and dust. As it turned out this little taste of the area’s mining history was just a starter. 

Under direction of our hosts, the following day we set out to see the natural sights of the area. As the day was inclement, our trip was curtailed slightly. We left the sights of the main crater for another day due to being drenched in the rain forest. Instead we had a lovely Devonshire Tea with jam scones and cappuccino in the old Lake Barrine tearooms. The tearooms overlooked the beautiful crater lake with its pristine water. Not a bad day in the rain!

Our group at the Tea Rooms

Curtain Fig

Next, we took in the sights of Lake Eacham (another crater lake), before heading into Yungaburra. This quaint little village is nestled on the edge of the Atherton Tablelands. The old hotel is in renovation to try and preserve its rich history of early Australian architecture. Following lunch at the hotel we traversed to Lake Tinaroo (a man-made dam) and the Curtain Fig Tree. This magnificent tree is covered by the vast roots system. 15mt of the strangler fig reaching to the ground.  

The day was getting late and our final stop for the day was at Herberton. This is the oldest town in the Tablelands with tin mining its main stay. Now I’m not really a museum type, but this one was quite different, with working small replicas on the mining operations. Press a button and everything came to life. Conveyers, tipping devices and crushers. As we were very late getting here (4:00pm), we only had limited to time to scour the place. The volunteer in-charge was wonderful, allowing us a 10-minute browse, while he counted the money for the day. An informative fellow and very proud of the town’s mining past, we thank him greatly.    

Arriving back home, we were exhausted from a packed day of sightseeing. But we were to do it all again tomorrow in different areas.

Sunday dawned and we headed out in our 4WD’s along the Silver Valley road. Twisting and turning around gravel tracks we finally came upon a gem of a place called Irvinebank. Again, a mining history with gold being the main find here. A light lunch at the hotel and more exploring. This time the boys found a wonderous place with two amazing men – Brian and Alan. 

Brian's machinery (part of).

Brian had retired four years ago at the age of 70yrs and needed a hobby. His hobby is now on show for everyone who is interested. Old compressor, cars, Blitz trucks, pumps – all in working order. Brian can’t resist getting everything to work and is a proud owner to show off his hobby to anyone who is interested. Alan is the quiet one and is the ‘designer’ behind Brian. As Alan put it “Brian makes things go. I show them off”. Apparently when they met, Brian had all his ‘stuff’ on the floor where no-one could see it. Alan built walls from mesh and displayed all the goods in categories for all to see. The place is truly inspirational for any mechanic, engineer or person just interested in old machinery and other nick-knacks. 

After much time here, we then had to trek home. But before we left hubby vowed, we will be back for a longer time, next time. I won’t mind as it is a beautiful little village, with a big heart and big past. 

With the past two days crammed with all the history, mining, natural wonders and interesting places I felt overwhelmed. My head was spinning with information and felt I had been here for more than two days. Thanks J&J for your hospitality and informative tour of your area. We will come back one day – promise!

Well, we are now in Cairns where we have split from brother and compatriots. We have caught up with our son who lives here and now find more relatives (hubby’s) are on their way. We are in a bit of a holding position at present while waiting for the next tourists to join us when we head up to Cape York. In the meantime, we will catch-up with some friends in the Daintree, while exploring this tropical north. 

Stay tuned, as the next post will be from somewhere in the Cape area.        

Part 3

Part 3

Well hello again. This time we are in sunny Mt Isa. Although it is sunny it is also unseasonably cool at present with temperatures only reaching about 21C. The diesel heater has been working overtime in the mornings with the conditions plummeting to a low of 0-4C. I haven’t actually seen any frost yet, but that might have something to do with the time we arise from bed!

Travelling from Birdsville we headed north toward Bedourie. Due to the recent flooding in the channel country, roads have been damaged. A detour out towards Lake Machattie made for some scenic driving as we traversed the area around the lake, through the typical gibber and into some red sand dunes. The dunes once again became the barrier between some water reaching areas, while missing others.

Right side water - Left side no water.

Farming in this country is very haphazard with water distribution. The occasional cow or two could be seen, but very little other life form. 

Finally, we reached the main road back into Bedourie where upon arrival we see the vegetable truck we left in Birdsville. What? How did he beat us into town when he certainly didn’t go past us?  It was bewildering, but discovered from the local Hotel owner, local traffic has right of way over the road where we had to detour. 

After the mandatory drink at the old establishment ( Bedourie hotel), we made our way out the road to find a campsite.

Bedourie Hotel

A few false starts and finally we came to a good stand of gum trees along a creek, where a pull-off was enough to get the vans out of sight and settle for the night. The loneliness of the night was quickly shattered with the jovial company we keep. With the campfire lit, it was time for a few drinks, some nibbles and some funny anecdotes about our day. And believe me there were some funny stories. Nothing repeatable on a blog, but yes, funny!    

The next morning, we joined the track again traveling into Min Min country, towards Boulia.  

The road was now all bitumen, so the going was relatively easy, except when oncoming traffic needed to pass. The road is only one car wide. To let other vehicle pass you have to move off to the gravel shoulder. I guess we should be appreciative of the QLD government in putting these roads in, but an extra 6’ either side would make a great deal of difference to broken windows and dinted cars and vans. You don’t realise how big this state is until Bob Katter's posters pop-up in Boulia. This politician covers an extremely large area from Cairns on the coast, to the Northern Territory border. The population in this area is sparse, so I guess we will accept Mr Katter’s effort for a road!

Into Boulia we called and headed straight to Information Centre. From here we obtained some tickets for the ‘Min Min Outback Encounter’, plus the Stone Cottage Museum. We had already seen the experience ourselves, but for our fellow travellers booked the round trip. Once again walking was required to the Stone Cottage.

Original house - Stone Cottage - Boulia

Once again male traveller complained about walking. I find humans strange creatures at times, as this male traveller complains with any walk we take. Yet he will walk for kms around old machinery, or down the road to discover what might be there. This apparently isn’t called a walk! 

Into the Stone Cottage we went, where we discovered the original house of Boulia (stone cottage), all the traditional equipment used in the 1800-1900s including a charcoal meat safe. 

The fellas went off to discover …more old machinery! The girls wandered the place discovering marine mammals from a time when dinosaurs reigned supreme. Big fish with sharp teeth enthralled and amazed us. To think these creatures roamed the sea 100 million years ago and to be discovered in this area, is staggering.

Prehistoric fish from Inland Sea 100 million years ago

The infamous inland sea is responsible for these large beasts and according to the manager of the place “more is out there somewhere!”

Moon rocks at the bottom of the tree

Another fascinating aspect were the ‘moon rocks’ displayed around the museum. Once again according to the Manager, these can be found out on the Winton Road where the road works have recently been constructed.  These rocks are almost uniquely round and were formed (you guessed it) back with the dinosaurs. The theory is that at the nucleus of these rocks is a fossil. To buy one would set you back over $100. 

Better to go and see what you can find on the road, I think!

We were on a tight timeline for this tour and needed to get back to the Information Centre for the next show. In between we had to pull the fellows away from their machine obsession. They even went as far as climbing on some of the old trucks and postulating theories about how they worked. Seriously, how many old bits can you ‘ooh and aah’ about?

Old relics - and fellas!

Yes, more walking back down the street (all of 8 minutes each way) and we tried to push lunch in before our show. And push is turned out to be. After ordering our meal at the hotel we waited and waited. Time was ticking away and nothing was happening.  10 minutes before our show was to start, the meal arrived. I have never eaten a chicken burger as quickly as this one and was sure indigestion would be the consequence. Hubby decided to eat his chips and asked for a take-away for his steak sandwich (wise move!).  Male traveller made a quick dive on his steak sandwich, chewing his last morsel as he sat down just as the introduction to the show began at 1:00pm. Female traveller made the right decision ordering a pie. No indigestion there!

The animated show was once again brilliant, with stories about the Min Min lights and its mysterious appearances in these far-flung areas of Australian. Even though we didn’t actually see a Min Min light, the myth will forever stay in our minds.

A quick shop for milk, bread and chocolate and back on the road. This time the channel country was making way for the more treed acres. Spinifex was starting to dominate and even rocky outcrops were seen on the horizon. Cattle were more prevalent and road-kill appeared more frequently than anywhere previously travelled. Kites, Crows and the magnificent Wedgie (Wedge-Tailed Eagles) were devouring the cadavers of cow and kangaroo on a regular basis.

Wedgie leaving his lunch 

The Wedgie reigns in this harsh landscape, taking precedence in the bird hierarchy. Slow to move from the road I insisted we slow right down. This allowed me the perfect picture, from the comfort of the car. 

The last leg of the day ended in Djarra, a small community 150kms from Mt Isa. Not much here but a Hotel, Roadhouse (selling everything), school and hospital. A lovely free, grassed camp with campfire for the night and we couldn’t ask for more. The Corella's were an extra benefit. A new amenities block under construction is almost complete which will set this area up for more good camping for tired tourist’s in the future. 

Coming into Mt Isa. Scenary is now changing from the gibber and channel country

Now I’ll say here, at times our travelling companions have an issue with their UHF radio. For some unbeknown reason the microphone comes on automatically, but they are unaware of it. We in the other car hear snippets of conversations; a bit like being half-a-fly on the wall! All of a sudden travelling down one of the roads, the microphone comes on and we hear female traveller hysterically laughing. We think whatever was said must be hilarious, but have no hint of what it is. Parking for the night female traveller comes to our van. “You’ll never guess what happened” she says. “I picked up a Women’s Weekly back at Boulia, and read the horoscopes for both of us. Mine is pretty good, but Male traveller’s is spot-on” she says laughingly. She proceeds to read it to us and we can’t help but ‘crack-up’ about the content. It is hilarious! Especially for a man who has an aversion to recycled food! I’ll leave it at that, just in case of embarrassment (what happens on camp, stays on camp!).

We have now arrived in Mt Isa, where the smelter smoke dominates the city-scape. An interesting mining town for zinc, silver and copper (originally). No doubt we will discover more about it all tomorrow. Till then…            

Part 2

You may be wondering why a massive first part to our adventure and a rather shorter version now? Well that's what happens when you forget your password for Google and Blogger and need to reset!
To continue our story...
On our way back from Muloorina, we came upon some unusual stainless steel contraptions normally found on a truck. It appears these things have fallen off the truck on its way either, in or out of the station. No doubt the truckie who lost them would be most put out when the time came to unload. They apparently (according to hubby) are used to put the stabilising legs down when disconnecting a trailer.
Well our good deed for the day was to pick these up and transport them into the Police Station at Marree. As it turns out this was fortuitous as on asking the police lady as to the opening of Birdsville track, she informed us "Anything under a semi-trailer is able to go through to Birdsville". Whahoo! Just the news we wanted to hear. The signs still are saying 4WD only and under 3 tonne, but I prefer the Marree Police policy.
After picking up a few essentials - bread, milk, vanilla slices (other travellers) it was onto the track. I was a little excited, as this was the only track I had yet to travel in this part of the world. Oddnadatta - tick! Strezlecki - tick! Birdsville now the last challenge.
The road although rough, was still in relatively good condition. Very few corrugations, patches of stone and some clay. Throw in the odd wet patch or river crossing and all was making for an interesting drive. It wasn't long before the gibber plains took over the entire landscape. The shimmering rocks made for wonderful mirages. It was easy to think how the old explorers would have been caught out many times when first pioneering this land.
The occasional sand dune was driven over; mostly of the grey type. Red dirt still a while away closer to Birdsville. The land was dry and dusty though with little evidence of rain for years. We were yet to reach the channel country and its wondrous floodplains.

Finally we made our camp that night halfway along the track at a place called Mungerannie. A quaint hotel in the middle of nowhere, with the owners just as excenttric. A very substantial meal and a few red wines (or beers) and it was time to head to bed. We were crooned with Dingo howling for the night. The outback lullaby.
Our male traveler was in his element here as he has a great knowledge and enthusiasm for the old postman Tom Kruse. Even Tom's old

truck was here in the yard, which made both men swoon.
Next day, onto Birdsville - only another 300 kms to go. More river crossings, sand dunes and gibber plains and we passed into true channel country. Green grass as high as your knees reached, in between some dunes (but not all). It certainly was a hit-and-miss business this water caper. A slight detour from the regular road via the bottom of a sand dune made for eventful driving. But the lagoons and water still present in the outback made it all worthwhile.
Finally we made it to Birdsville without much mishap. Paul found a nail in his tyre?? with produced a slow leak, but other wise all unscathed.
Well a day of washing, clothes and cars has ensured. We are now
ready to start our next journey to Mt Isa and beyond. A trip to the racecourse, cemetery and tip and we've seen the sights - according to the fellas. At least I had a look at one of the videos playing at the information centre about the Diamantina  Shire and the residents who make up this unique part of the world.

Gibber plains

Until next part - stay tuned.

Outback Adventure 2019

Part 1

The outback has always held a fascination for me. As a child I watched movies such as ‘We of the Never, Never’ and ‘The Overlanders” dreaming of the wilderness of red dessert sand, Mulga scrub and gibber plains. 

I have now travelled quite a few kilometres over this harsh but wonderful landscape and this trip in 2019 is another adventure with a focus on Lake Eyre, the Birdsville Track and Cape York.

Our companions for this trip were novices to the outback laws of travel; lowering tyre pressures, locking out dust and leaving only your footprints. We on the other hand had never travelled with a ‘real’ caravan before, usually only a home-made camper trailer. This camper trailer served us well in the previous years, but time for an upgrade was required. 

We travelled quickly the first few days from our home in Bairnsdale to Mildura. Crossing the Murray River, we diverted at Wentworth, to see the major rivers of our country converge; the Murray and Darling. From here we went to follow the track out to Rufus River on Lake Victoria, but were thwarted in our attempt as previous rain had made our road impassable. An alternative to Renmark was sought.

The backroad to Renmark was in reasonable condition, with only a few splashes of water and mud making for a fun ride. The poor van was now christened with its first red mud. A great deal more was to follow later in our trek. Only a slight sighting of Lake Victoria was seen in the distance before we found ourselves surrounded by grapevines and in South Australia. 

Renmark was our next stop to restock on fruit and veggies. Quarantine measures at the border, insured all new stock was required. 

Following the Murray River to Morgan we then detoured from the main Sturt Highway towards Burra. A moonscape now captured our imagination as we left behind the irrigated citrus and vines. Low saltbush and sandy red dirt were our scene for the next while until the Clare Valley Hills came into view. 

Bypassing Burra, time was now running short in the day. A place to camp next on the itinerary. Terowie an old railway town was now in sight and it was here we pulled up to camp. 

The history on these long-forgotten towns is something to behold and treasure. All our fellow travellers enjoyed the eerie peace this once bustling place produced. The old railway station; the different gauge train tracks used to suit the once thriving wool and grain industries surrounding this town. Even General MacArthur had his moment of fame during WW2, declaring “I shall return” on the railway platform. 

Nothing much happens these days in Terowie besides a fuel station and general store. The main street is very quiet except for the passing tourist and the odd chook walking by!   

Following a cool night and morning we were off again up the track, this time to stop at the revitalised Peterborough. I say revitalised, as a few years back the community got together and obtained a government grant to help tidy their shopfronts and facias. With the transformation the town underwent, it now looks like someone actually wants to live here. The once dreary falling down streetscape gone. The community also went the one step further, providing a service to all RV (Recreation vehicles), with dump point, water and internet facilities.  

Trains again were a big factor in this town’s history. With five different entrances to town and a major shunting yard, it was one of the busiest railway stations in Australia. Over 10,000 people once called this place home; now the population is down to about 1,500. 

Now the thing about caravanning 2019 style is that most of the vans are self-contained; showers and toilet almost the norm. With this modernisation also comes the dreaded emptying of the toilet. This duty is mostly relegated to the men, under complaint of course. 

As it happened our fellow male traveller is a very animated and talkative man. The usual complaining about the toilet was made as he started to unscrew the outlet cap. Placing the cap upon the lip of the dump-point he continued to release the content of the toilet cassette into the cement pit. Meanwhile my husband had already flushed and returned his toilet cassette to its rightful place and was beginning to fill his water tanks. With water hose rolled out, the lady traveller tripped over the hose, almost losing her footing. On this noise, our male traveller turned suddenly and knocked the cap off the lip and into the dump pit. The issue now was how to retrieve it?  The antics that followed should have been on ‘funniest home videos’. It was too deep in the pit to retrieve by arm alone. And let’s face it who really wanted to put their arm in there anyway? Husband then finds two tent poles and slowly manoeuvres them together, like chopsticks inching the cap up. Several attempts later, and finally an arm goes in halfway, the cap is out. They say a picture tells a thousand words, thank goodness I have a camera in my phone to prove this feat! 

After all this high drama it was time to ‘chill’ out with a coffee and cake. As fortuitous as it may seem, such a shop was just over the road from where we were.

The old Capital Picture theatre had a new identity as a café. On entering the old building, we were met with the staircase and signs pointing inwards. The further we proceeded, the further we were amazed at the transformation the old picture theatre had undergone.

Gone were the theatre seats, replaced by sofas and easy chairs. Small tables and chairs inhabited the interior of the place with old memorabilia scouting the outside. Even down to the Blue’s Brothers statue on either side of the stage, with an American Jeep in the corner. 

The coffee was good but the nostalgia even more appealing.    

The day was slipping past and it was onwards toward our next destination – Wilpena Pound. 

Capitol Theatre - Peterborough

This was the true beginning of our outback adventure. Leaving cities behind, we now turned right into the magnificent Flinders Ranges; this ancient landscape is one of nature’s wonders.

Pulling into Wilpena we made our way over to the information centre, before gaining our bearings on the walk into Wilpena and the old Hill’s Homestead. Walking shoes on, bottles of water carried and we were on our way. Much complaining from our male traveller came “What do we need to do this for? Isn’t there a bus? I don’t like this walking caper” and so it went on. To be honest we were under the impression it was only a 5 kms round-trip, but it turned into 8kms. 

Walking up the track we were surrounded by various gum trees, following the stream. The going was easy although it was a slight incline all the way. A few other walking tracks came off our route pointing to many other highlights of the park. Meeting a few other walkers coming back, banter amongst the group became commonplace. Finally, into view came the old homestead.  Interpretive signs explained the history of Wilpena Pound, the European settlement, farming trials and harsh conditions faced by the early pioneers. 

After a short but very steep trek up the rock staircase we reached the platform where we could survey the pound in its entirety. The panorama is amazing from here.

Panorama of Wilkpena Pound

The undergrowth of the pound was quite thick with only a few larger trees. The walls of the pound are sparse of any vegetation but reign with majesty over the entire place. Once the photo was taken it was return to the bottom and back down the trail.

On trekking back down the track, we happened upon a couple sitting on a log. We asked what they were waiting for, thinking they were just resting, when they said they were “waiting for the bus”. Bus? What bus? Our male traveller was very interested as he was still complaining about the walking, even though secretly he had enjoyed the pound and its history. “How much is the bus?” he enquired. “$3.00 round trip, but you need a ticket” was the response.  

“Where do you get a ticket?” male traveller asked.

“Back at the station!”

“Damn! I guess we will have to walk back after all” male traveller said in a dejected way. A further hundred meters along and male traveller says “those lazy sods. They could have walked back. Fancy taking a bus!”

By the time we had returned to the cars and vans, it was time to head out to our camp. So we thought! Being a National Park, we were supposed to book into the camp sites. Trying the internet, we found the sites confusing and not helpful in any way. We resorted to going back into the information centre to try and gain a site through the main office. Unfortunately, like one of my good friends I don’t like standing in line too long. Impatient, yes!  Especially when the couple at the front of the que has been there over half an hour and line is getting larger by the minute. Many people walked out in frustration, including us. But not until we got a glimmer of information to help in our assessment of where to camp. The rain we had encountered a few days beforehand had also swept its way through the ranges and all gravel roads in the park were off limits. Blinman up the road about 50kms was to be our stop for the night. 

Twilight was now encroaching on us, as we hightailed it up the bitumen, trying to enjoy the picturesque scenery on the way but also trying to avoid the numerous kangaroos. I was on the lookout shouting “there’s one (kangaroo). There’s a heap (Kangaroos)” all the way. As it turns out, unbeknown to us, one kangaroo wanted to make a house call with the travellers behind us, colliding with their headlights and ‘bull-bar’. Eventually making it into town we parked behind the hotel and examined the damage to the car. Not too serious, but enough to be annoying. 

We had had enough of walking and kangaroos for the day, going across to the hotel for pizza tea. Hot showers and nice amenities were a pleasant change from the drama of the day.

In the morning we scoured the old ruins of a copper mine which had operated in Blinman until 1920.

Copper Vein - Blinman

Once again it amazes me how the pioneers found these places and the hardships the people of the day went through. After a short time, we travelled down the Parachilna Gorge Rd, passing some magnificent scenery once again before making our way back onto the main road at Parachilna. Now running low on fuel, it was time to take in the sights of Legh Creek and refuel; both car and persons. A short stopover to stock up on a few basic supplies; milk, bread, ice creams and once again on our way. Leigh Creek was built primarily for the coal mine a few kilometres out the road. It now survives, like many of these outback places on tourist dollars. Only a distant picture of the open-cut coal mine is evident with all access denied into the mine. 

Leaving Leigh Creek, we thought we would now start to encounter some outback roads, notorious for gravel, dust and corrugations. To our delight (and some would say sadness) much of this road is now sealed as far north as Marree. Transportation to some very remote places is now accessible by two wheel-drive vehicles. 

Before Marree though, we found (again) the wonderful old ruin township of Farina. One sign said it all “Far-In-A” (Far In Australia), which I believe sums up the place. It is a place off the main road in the middle of nowhere. Initially a pastoral lease, before becoming a railway siding on the Old Ghan it now hosts thousands of tourists to this oasis, due to an innovative group called the ‘Friends of Farina’.  This volunteer group set up in 2009 to help renovate some buildings such as the Underground Bakery plus others. They also open the bakery over the winter months to provide the tourists with freshly cooked treats like pies, pastries and the necessary bread. It was like a magnet for any passers to drop in, look around the old ruins, before devouring the obligatory coffee and cake. 

Farina Campsite - looking down from War Memorial Hill

We pulled up camp and before long checked out the old cemetery which was full of old pioneers and cameleers. The cameleers were all facing Mecca due to their Islamic faith. At the camp, a War Memorial on top of the hill has been established. This is where war personnel from the area have been distinguished for their duties to our country. Other places of interest was the old ‘donkey’, where you need to stoke your fire drum, heating the water before a shower is undertaken. Novel but efficient. 

Only staying one night, it was back on the road to Marree, where a stop ensued. This was to check the old train engines in-situ where they will be housed for their eternity, at the old Marree Station.  

On then to our camp for the night – Muloorina Station 54kms out from Marree. Leaving the bitumen behind, we now made our way on the gravel. The road, recently graded, was still easy going until we reached the final 2.5kms and found the dreaded corrugations. 

The billabong of Muloorina was now in site with its glistening artesian water beckoning. The trees around the billabong are full of birdlife with fish abundant (small) inhabiting this extremely warm water. You can swim in the water as the outlet to the billabong is quite a way upstream and has plenty of time to cool for you to enjoy swimming if wanted. 56C is the temperature at the head of the water as it comes out the pipe. 

Now I said in the beginning that our mission was to see water in Lake Eyre North. Another 46kms up an extremely awful corrugated road is the viewing point for such an occasion. After talking to other campers, we find that the is NO water can be seen on the lake from this vantage point. NO WATER!!!! What is all the media talking about the lake being full? Very disappointing. Time to re-evaluate our trip. What now? 

As I sit here now, the decision is looming about which way to go. The Birdsville Track is supposedly still closed to vehicles over 3 tonne. Other options are to continue on the Oodnadatta Track through Alice Springs and on the Plenty Highway. The second option is to backtrack to the Strzelecki and go via Innamincka. Each way has its merits but I think a toss of the coin is the next call. Stay tuned.               

     

Camp - Muloorina Station

     

                 

Muloorina Station billabong at sunset

The long journey home

Hi there folks, here I am again with my last post from this trip. As you might well appreciate we have have made it home after 8 weeks on the road. Our trip was cut short in comparison to what I had hoped but circumstances were against us and here we are back in Bairnsdale.
When last I wrote we were in Darwin when it was extremely hot: What a change in the weather gods!
After leaving Darwin town we headed south but first made a detour to the Territory Park. This park is based on similar lines to the Desert Park in Alice Springs with the park divided into different areas you would see in the territory: woodlands, monsoon forest, wetlands etc. They have a section for night creatures where you wander through a dark enclosure to watch snakes, rats, owls and other night creatures go about there business unaware they are being spied upon.
Rangers give talks about all sorts of topics: Pelicans, Crocodile safety, with the best section (as far as I'm concerned) the Birds of Flight talk and demonstration. Black Buzzards (that have to be related to Wedge Tailed Eagles), Barn Owls with the silent flight and the best of all (according to me) the mighty Jabiru.

Jabiru at Territory Park

We saw this bird fly in pick up a fish and fly out; how marvelous to see this majestic creature so up close and doing what comes naturally. The interesting bit about this also was we were packed in with some school kids during this show and up until the show started you could hear the noisy chattering of regular kids, but when the show began you could hear a pin drop, so enthralled were they by natures beauty. 
After walking around for several hours and it becoming very warm, we headed out and south to Litchfield NP. We have been here a few times before and love the place. The scenery, history are wonderful but plunge pools are the best in the entire NT. We stayed at Wangi Falls which still looked amazing even getting to the end of the dry season, waterfalls were still cascading over the two areas and people were everywhere swimming, sitting under waterfalls etc. At 37C it was a very refreshing dip in the pool with both Paul and I staying in for quite sometime.

Wangi Falls - Litchfield NP

In the mornings our camp was visited by little wallabies, then later as the sun came out - skinks. All very fascinating to watch the creatures go about their daily business without too much disturbance from us.
From here we made it down to Katherine again, catching up once more with Shane and Kaye who had only 8 weeks left in there stint up there before looking to come south to some cooler climate again. We went for a drive to Katherine Gorge and found out where all the bats from Bairnsdale made their new home - here! 50,000 of the screeching things hanging out of every tree. I only hope they stay there and don't come back to us in East Gippsland.
We then spent another few days in Alice for the final clean-up and shop before our final assault on going home, spending a few lovely nights alone on the road, now able to have a campfire and getting some well needed sleep as the weather was cooling down.
Now a couple of funny things happened on our last few days or actually nights, out. Firstly we stopped about 30kms out from Port Augusta on a free camp winding out the back from the road. Unbeknown to us for a short time at least, we also had a train line a bit further out the back from our camp. This was no big deal when the first train, about 5pm went chugging along with its freight toward Darwin but after we had lit our campfire for the night and had some tea the wind sprung up and made life a little uncomfortable, so with campfire dampened we both headed into our camper.
Paul, as is relatively normal, was in bed before 7pm and I sat and read my book, played on the Ipad until a half sensible time of trying to get some sleep (about 9pm). It took some time to eventually find sleep and by the time I got their another 3 trains had passed our site. When Paul stirred around 2am to go the the toilet he loudly informs me with great gusto "Hey Chook, there goes another train"! 
Well to say I was not impressed by being woken up with his hollering about another B*&^$$# train is an understatement. I then informed him there had been already 3 trains passed, and no I wasn't impressed with being told about another one.
By the morning before we left we had seen 7 trains on the line behind our camper! Who knew it was going to be like Flinder's Street out here?
Our final morning was also memorable but for a different reason. We had met up with old friends of ours Gael and Norm, who were traveling back to their home in SA from a family reunion of Gael's. We had been in contact with them and were aware of their preferred route home so when we came through Loxton (SA) and actually passed them it was a squeal of the brakes as both of us turned around to catch the other. After the usual greetings it was decided we go towards Pinaroo and seek a place for the night on the side of the road that would fulfill our needs to have a campfire and house two camper/caravans. Norm found our site; an old school site set off the main road  with plenty of firewood and fairly flat - perfect!
Now we do carry a portable diesel heater for attachment to the camper in extreme cases of cold but as the night went on, we were lulled into a false sense of security as the campfire burned bright and warm. The giveaway should have been the coats and beanies we had on, but no Paul did not connect the dots or the heater. By the time we went to bed (after a few ales) it was freezing.
We no sooner get into bed (at least I had my hot water-bottle) than Paul says "do you want me to hook up the heater"?
I feeling sorry for him having to get out again in this cold said no it would be okay we'll just have to snuggle down a bit more.  The night wore on and seemed to get colder, but still with the doona over my head and snuggling down even more eventually the sun dawned.

A tad cold!

Norm was already up with last night's fire cranked up again and flaming beautifully. Although I was reasonably comfortable now with the heat in my bed it didn't take long to get out and get a bit closer to the fire. It was by far our earliest morning at 6:45am SA time but because we had to cross the border into Vic this morning Paul felt 7:15am had a better ring to it.
More beanies and coats as we stood around the fire cooking our toast when Gael comes out with a thermometer and informs us we had a cold night as it was -2.5C in her van now and -7C out in the open. No wonder my mirror on the camper had lovely little crystals on it!
After our pack-up, breakfast and fire dampening it was time to say farewell and head in our respective directions.
Well the trip was uneventful but long, traveling from Loxton all the way in one day! But we are here and it is nice to be home although I'm still struggling with settling into a pattern after tripping nearly everyday: I guess it will all come back in time.
Bye for now hope you enjoyed the trip.

Mindel Market - the sign says it all!

Jabiru

Wangi Falls - but look closely and you will see quite a few Orb Spiders dangling over the water.

One of the many salt lakes on the way home

Heavy Tree gap - Alice Springs

Kakadu and Darwin

Hello from the top end and a very hot and sticky one it is. Some locals saying it looks like the build up to an early wet season, with clouds starting to appear in the sky and humidity rising.
Darwin is what I remember from previous times; an appealing city with a slow easy pace almost like a big country town.
There is some development going on but according to the Minister of the Territory they need more people and he is now calling on FIFO workers to cease and make the workers of mines live in the territory. Good luck with that if economics have anything to do with it!
Anyway enough of the everyday life what I really want to concentrate on this episode is our week in Kakadu, which in one word can be described as AWESOME!
We started on the south side of Kakadu after obtaining our pass and were told by Kaye and Shane we MUST go to Gunlom (a 4WD road to a plunge pool). This proved to be a very rough, corrugated, arduous journey with the end result a very dry patch of dirt in the shape of a camp. Yes, there was a plunge pool with a very friendly freshwater croc as resident. Yes, we did go swimming, but other than that there wasn't that much to do. Not the best first impression I must admit but if we had stayed a few more days they were having some ranger activities on the weekend that may have been worthwhile. After another 39 kms out we headed to Coowinda on South Alligator River, where we went a bit more civilized in the caravan park.
From here we did our most expensive adventure by taking a boat cruise out on the river just before sunset. Along with about 100 others spread over 4 boats, we had a lovely time cruising up and down the river looking at all sorts of wildlife; crocodiles, Maggie Geese, Black Bittern (very rare apparently), Small Kingfisher (also rare), Whistling Ducks (of which there are many), Egrets, Herons etc. Life is certainly plentiful on the wetlands and this is into the dry season now!
After our sunset we then returned to base where we

Not sure if he was so pleased to see us.

indulged in a Pizza at the bistro, sitting alongside some lovely Dutch people out here for a 28 day tour.
Our next stopover was Jabiru to stock up on a few essentials and to have a quick look at the Ranger uranium mine, a few kms out of Jabiru. Quite a big mine in full action by the number of cars at the entrance to the mine. As nothing held our interest in Jabiru we then headed to the East Alligator camp site. This by far was the best place we found in the park; ranger talks on aboriginal art, ancient rock formation, kinship etc. We even had the opportunity and privilege to do some weaving with some lovely ladies from Arnhem land. 
Ann and Jennifer showed us the process of stripping the Pandanus palm leaves, then cutting them into strands, colouring them with plant matter by boiling them in water, and finally the actually weaving. I have a new respect for these ladies as they plied there talents making us 'balanda' (foreigners) look very tardy. The actual weaving was the easy part; I couldn't get the hang of the stripping the palm fronds for love nor money, yet Ann, particularly, made it look oh-so-easy. All in all a great morning.
I have skipped over the major parts of our time here but there were other walks, talks and interesting places to see and do. Cahill Crossing for one, which is a causeway between Kakadu and Arnhem land, where the crocs actually line up at the causeway, on an incoming tide, to catch the barramundi. Wild!
Please enjoy the photos I have posted as well and I will talk to you another time.  

Jabiru walking on dry floodplain

Could be from Game of Thrones but also a great place to hide from the heat and grind seed.

Cahill's Crsossing

South Alligator river

Ubirr looking over floodplains

Ann and Jennifer showing us the techniques used in weaving and making the colour they use.

Ramsar declared wetland bird hide and Lotus Lilly

Katherine and the top of Australia

Well we have arrived in Katherine after saying farewell to Rob and Ruth back at Threeways: they heading towards Queensland and starting the journey home.
We had a lovely time with them exploring much of Binns Track and the Davenport Ranges. Once again stayed at a station - Murray Downs where we had to share the amenities block with some of the mustering people. With a helicopter starting at 6:00am it was certainly a rude awakening to another bright shiny day (of which we seem to have many). Most days the temperature is around 33C with nights down to about 15C. With what we hear about at home on the weather stakes is sounds like we are in the right place.
The Davenport Ranges, as I said were very pretty, especially the southern end with many rock-holes with water a plenty to be seen. An old tungsten mine, that looks like it could start again tomorrow, was explored on foot around the machinery and old slurry heaps. Apparently it actually hasn't been used since the last world war, but certainly doesn't really show its age too greatly.
We saw some feral donkeys with some of them very noisy during the night, especially when we were stopped at Old Police Station Waterhole a wonderful spot amongst gum tress, green grass and much water. Even enough water for Paul to cast a net and find us some very tasty Red Claw (much like a yabbie).
We all took the short walk around the waterhole to see the ruins of the police station which apparently was abandoned around 1944, following the mine demise. To have a police-station out here must have been one hell of a job, trying to keep the peace between miners, pastoralists and the aborigines.
After our few luxuriant days of 'peace and serenity' it was off to discover Whistling Duck Creek:oh what a disappointment compared to what we had. The place was extremely overgrown with snake invested (looked it anyway, although didn't actually see any) grass, no water in camp area and only 3 out of 16 campsites able to be used. Some of the sites actually having anthills about 12" high!
There was a nice big waterhole if you walked 500 mts, but as it was only a day area and it was hot, we kept our stay to one night and left disappointed.
A few nights in Tennant Creek with some washing, shopping and other incidentals with one night out at a concert for Harmony Week. With kangaroo stew and damper for tea and some great indigenous music we all had a lovely evening except for the cold wind that night.
Onto Bitter Springs after we left the Widdowson's where he spent a lovely night with some wildlife scaring the life out of us. After dark we had a visit from a small wallaby (except we didn't know what it was in the night) that rattled the rubbish bins and scratched around on our ground sheet. Next morning it came again but this time we were awake and quite happy to see the little critter.
Bitter Springs is also well known for its thermal pools and both Paul and I lapped up the clear warm water both in the evening and before we left in the morning; very nice to wake up to.
Now in Katherine where we have caught up with Kaye and Shane who are working at the caravan park. Great to see these two who still seem to enjoy their nomadic life working and holidaying around Oz.
We leave tomorrow and head to  Kakadu NP, so I'm looking forward to seeing another part of Australia I have yet to see.
See you again sometime soon.

Old Police Station Waterhole

Red claw for breaky

Where telegraph line was joined between Alice Springs and Darwin

One of two chairs Paul found on the roadside.